Enjoying food in the Danish region of Kystlandet
I have just returned from a trip to the Danish region of Kystlandet - an area surrounding the town of Horsens in eastern Jutland. What the region offers is a rather wonderful and intriguing blend of coastal beauty, verdant landscapes, and rich history. I shall be adding more articles about the various destinations within Kystlandet which I explored as part of a British Guild of Travel Writers visit to the area.
But here I’d like to tell you about the amazing gastronomic offerings of this largely undiscovered Danish gem. We enjoyed some truly fabulous food - including a meal which was quite simply one of the best I’ve enjoyed on over 40 years of travel writing. That was a ten course tasting menu which we were treated to at a tiny restaurant called Ji-Mi’s.
Chef Jimmy Jensen runs two dining establishments in Horsens
The chef, Jimmy Jensen, is one of the most talented cooks I have met in a very long time. The food was truly delicious - and I mean sensational. The menu was well thought out with the excellent wine matching the many dishes perfectly. Jimmy uses the amazing local produce whenever he can and he prefers organic ingredients. I will be putting up the menu here soon, just to make your mouths water…. (Check out https://www.ji-mis.dk/)
Jimmmy is also in charge of the food at the wonderful Café Ella, located in Horsens Art Museum overlooking the Caroline Amalie Lund park. The speciality here is a “beef sandwich” better known as the best beef-burger I’ve had in years.
Jimmy Jenseon’s ‘beef sandwich’
Another brilliant meal was enjoyed at Dolly’s, also in the heart of the old industrial harbour town of Horsens. This restaurants specialises in excellent homemade Danish dishes – including the famous classic: fried pork rashers with parsley-sauce. Dollys has been family-owned for three generations and is a very well known establishment in the region. the starter of mussels I had was truly magnificent - the broth was exceptionally good. https://www.dollys.dk/
Mussels at Dollys
Fresh Seafood Delights
Given its coastal proximity, Kystlandet is a haven for seafood aficionados. The pristine waters offer an abundant variety of fish, such as plaice, herring, and cod. Whether grilled, smoked, or pickled, the seafood here is a testament to the region's deep bond with the ocean. Don't miss the chance to visit local fish markets or harbour-side restaurants to savour the day's catch. Being surrounded by water, Jutland boasts an array of seafood delicacies. From the fresh herring of the North Sea to the Baltic Sea's cod and plaice, the region offers a myriad of dishes that pay homage to its maritime roots.
We had a wonderful seafood lunch at Røgeriet Tunø (Tunø Smokehouse) on the island of that name - a truly impressive smokehouse with outdoor dining and a menu of delicious fish dishes located right next to the isle’s main harbour.
Travel writers at Tuno Smokehouse
Greenland salmon smoked on Tuno
The smoking oven at the harbour-side smokehouse
Back in the town of Horsens you can always opt for one of Jimmy’s amazing open seafood sandwiches at Café Ella…
Open seafood sandwich at Cafe Ella
Local Cheese and Dairy
Danish dairy is renowned worldwide, and Kystlandet contributes significantly to this reputation. Local farms produce a plethora of cheeses with rich, nuanced flavours. Freshly churned butter, aromatic soft cheeses, and aged varieties are all worth a try. The creamy textures and robust flavors are sure to captivate any cheese lover's palate.
Tarteletter: Creamy Chicken in Puff Pastry Shells
Tarteletter
These delightful puff pastry shells filled with a creamy mixture of chicken, peas, and carrots are a classic dish enjoyed across Denmark. However, in Jutland, they are particularly cherished, often making appearances at special occasions and family gatherings. We enjoyed our tarteletter at a traditional Danish inn called Sandvad Kro, an historic restaurant that dates back to the 16th century..
Berry-Packed Desserts
The fertile soils of Kystlandet yield an array of berries, making summer a particularly sweet season. From traditional berry tarts to Rødgrød med Fløde (red berry pudding with cream), the desserts here showcase the region's lush produce. These sweet concoctions are not just delightful but also provide a taste of Kystlandet's summery essence.
4. Hearty Rye Bread
While rye bread, or "rugbrød," is popular throughout Denmark, Kystlandet's bakeries have their unique spin on this staple. Often served as the base for smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches), the dense, nutty flavor of local rye bread pairs brilliantly with toppings ranging from pickled herring to fresh vegetables.
5. Artisanal Beverages
Kystlandet's beverage scene is equally compelling. With microbreweries crafting unique ales and lagers, as well as local distilleries producing snaps (Danish aquavit), the drinks here are a celebration of tradition and innovation.
The Farm-to-Table Philosophy of Jutland
What sets Jutland apart is its emphasis on local and fresh produce. With vast agricultural lands and rich seas, the region has a natural advantage, and this is reflected in its dishes. The flavours are genuine, and there's a certain authenticity that comes from using ingredients that have been harvested at their peak. One example of the farm to plate philosophy that we were able to enjoy was on the island of Alrø where we were served with incredibly tasty bison meat raised on a nearby farm. We had a bison-burger alongside mouth-watering tapas tt Alrø Købmandsgaard.
Conclusion
Kystlandet is more than just scenic views and untouched landscapes. It's a culinary journey waiting to be embarked upon. With every bite and sip, one can uncover tales of the land, the sea, and the passionate people who call Kystlandet home. If you're seeking an authentic Danish gastronomic experience off the beaten path, this eastern enclave is your next destination.
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