I have recently been beach-foraging with a couple of well-known Cornish chefs and I will be writing about that adventure in the coming weekend’s newspapers - in the meantime I recall writing another piece about beach foraging a few years ago… Here it is…

There are few human pursuits more primeval than scavenging for food on a beach. Our early ancestors spent thousands of years practicing this skill as Homo sapiens began their slow migration out of Africa. In fact, it's reckoned that our forefathers spent the best part of 70,000 years living on or near the shore. That's a lot of winkles, mussels, and limpets!

In these modern times, it's no wonder that many of us can't simply sit on a beach. Instead, we feel the need to forage among the rockpools—because we're hard-wired to do so. But how many of us actually gather food from the beach to eat? Very few, especially here in Britain. While we may help our kids catch crabs and shrimps to put in a bucket for an hour, the serious act of seashore harvesting is rare.

Beach Foraging: An Ancient Tradition 🏝️☕️

Our French neighbours take beach foraging seriously, and I've visited beaches in Brittany where almost every living organism has been gleaned by the locals. Here in the UK, though, it's far less common. This summer, I wanted to change that by revisiting the hunter-gatherer within me. I joined North Devon's well-known Dan the Fishman on a secluded beach just over the Cornwall border after he invited me to explore what you can do at a seaside location to grab your own free lunch.

Rediscovering the Hunter-Gatherer 🗺️

Dan is a true enthusiast when in hunter-gatherer mode. Rediscovering these old skills is not only about food—it is also about reconnecting with nature, understanding the environment, and gaining a greater appreciation of where our food comes from. There is something profoundly satisfying about collecting food with your own hands, knowing exactly where it came from, and being able to prepare it in a simple yet delicious way. The sense of achievement and fulfillment that comes from this process is deeply rewarding, not to mention the taste of truly fresh ingredients straight from the shore.

Duckpool Beach: Foraging Adventure Begins 🍽️

We began our journey down to Duckpool Beach in North Cornwall. Dan, originally from London, said, "I've been living here for more than 32 years, and I've always been drawn to the coast. This is the perfect day off after working my arms to the bone selling fish."

Duckpool Beach is a hidden gem—it's rugged, wild, and beautifully untouched. The dramatic cliffs that rise on either side give it an almost otherworldly feel, and it's the perfect setting for a day of foraging. As we arrived at the dramatic National Trust-owned coastline, Dan shared his love for collecting seafood. "This is my idea of heaven," he said as we unloaded cooking stoves, chopping boards, and sieves. He compared it to the foragers in Brittany: "There, you'll find little girls, grannies, and aunties with baskets, raking away for razor fish, limpets, mussels, and winkles—sometimes there's nothing left. But it's amazing how big they all are here; there's no problem with over-collecting on this shore."

As we made our way across the rocky shoreline, Dan pointed out different types of seaweed, shellfish, and other edible delights. He showed me how to identify the best spots for finding mussels and winkles, and explained how the tides affect where you can forage. He emphasised the importance of being mindful of the environment and only taking what you need—sustainability is key when it comes to foraging, ensuring that the ecosystem remains healthy and can continue to provide for future generations.

Foraging Tips: Collecting with Care 🛠️

Dan also made an eco-friendly point: "Pick off the tops of plants like rock samphire and sea-beet with care—you're almost pruning them. That way, you won't damage the plants."

He also explained the importance of knowing the seasons and the local regulations regarding foraging. Some areas may have restrictions on what you can collect, and certain species may only be available at specific times of the year. By respecting these guidelines, we ensure that the environment remains balanced and that the plants and animals we rely on are not over-harvested.

My favorite hunter-gatherer act of the day was levering limpets. You need a short, stubby knife to approach these stubborn creatures with caution. Surprise is key—a quick, accurate lunge with the knife is essential. Once collected, Dan suggested putting the limpets in a pan of bubbling Muscadet white wine to soften them.

We also collected rock samphire, a salty, aromatic plant that grows along the coast. Dan described it as the perfect accompaniment to seafood—its natural saltiness pairs wonderfully with shellfish, and its crunch adds texture to any dish. We picked sea-beet too, a leafy green that tastes a bit like spinach and can be cooked in much the same way.

Mussels, Winkles, and Limpets: The Catch of the Day 🍮

Two key observations from our day of gathering:

Mussels: The larger ones are found further down the beach, right at the low-tide mark. Wild mussels are smaller than commercial ones but, in my opinion, vastly sweeter. Their briny, rich flavor makes them a real treat, especially when cooked fresh over a beach fire. There is nothing quite like the taste of mussels cooked within minutes of being plucked from the rocks.
Winkles: The biggest winkles are found near the top of the beach. Look for the brave ones slithering out onto open rocks—they're easier to catch and more satisfying to eat. Winkles may be small, but they pack a punch of flavor that is both salty and earthy. Eating them requires a bit of patience, but it is worth the effort for that burst of taste.

Dan emphasised rinsing everything—first in seawater, then in ordinary tap water. He reassured us, "The waters here are clean; this is the North Atlantic, with some of the cleanest waters in the UK."

We also found a few small crabs, which Dan explained could be used to make a delicious broth. "Crabs are fantastic for flavour," he said. "They add a depth to soups and stews that you just can't get from anything else." He showed me how to handle them safely, and how to tell if they were the right size to take. Again, sustainability was a big theme—only take what you need, and make sure you leave enough behind for the ecosystem to thrive.

Culinary Paradise: A Taste of the Sea ⚡️

The limpets were still a bit chewy, but their sweet-yet-savory flavor made them the star of the show. The mussels were the sweetest I've ever tasted, and the winkles—while tiny and fiddly—were well worth the effort. Duckpool Beach truly is a culinary paradise, an unspoiled corner of England where you can unlock the forager within and enjoy the freshest seashore cuisine.

Dan also shared some simple recipes that could be prepared right there on the beach. We cooked the mussels with a bit of garlic and seaweed over a portable stove, and the results were divine. The addition of the rock samphire gave the dish an extra dimension, with its salty tang enhancing the natural flavours of the seafood. We also made a simple sea-beet stir-fry, which was surprisingly delicious considering the few ingredients we had at hand.

The experience of cooking and eating what we had gathered ourselves was incredibly rewarding. There is something special about the connection you feel to your food when you have collected it with your own hands. It makes you appreciate the effort involved in every meal and gives you a deeper understanding of the natural world around you.

Duckpool Beach is more than just a beautiful place—it's a source of food, inspiration, and adventure. Whether you are an experienced forager or a complete beginner, there is something magical about spending a day exploring the shoreline and discovering the edible treasures hidden in the rockpools and seaweed beds. It is an experience that connects you to the past, to the land, and to the food that sustains us.

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Nov 19 Unlocking the Ancient Art of Beach Foraging ⭐️⛵️