Six Devon Walks - 2. Brixham - Berry Head
Berry Head
Any excuse to go to Brixham. As long as my fish-wholesaler pal Neil Walker has got the fruits of the sea in his fridges, I am happy to make a detour to trawler-town in search of cod cheeks and the succulent wings of skate.
Neil Walker at his shellfish booth on Brixham Harbour
But every time I call in at the harbour a little question mark appears - or at least it did until recently when I finally laid the geographical ghost to rest.
It’s that niggling question that asks: "I wonder what happens around the corner?"
From Brixham Harbour you can see most of Torbay curving its suburban way north, but you cannot see what happens along the coast immediately to your left or right. The left-hand option leads you along one of Torbay’s prettiest stretches - the wooded coast that makes its way to Goodrington.
But east, beyond the breakwater - what happens out past Shoalstone Point?
There is one big, bold and beautiful answer and it is called Berry Head, with its almost cubist sliced vertical cliffs and its oddly flattened top. But never judge a fellow by his appearance, explore the lofty environs of this muscular and much-scarred old man of the sea and you will find much to admire and applaud.
I parked near the harbour and strolled around the new (-ish) and splendid promenade that makes its way around the southern side of the inner port - past all the newish flats and businesses, not to mention the vast marina full of enough floating real-estate to invade a small country - to the breakwater.
Next comes the cosy little corner called Breakwater Beach with a rather alluring looking restaurant and bar to one side. Cross the top of this small beach and you’’’ reach concrete star that ascends to Berry Head Road - which is a cul-de-sac so you don’t have to worry too much about the traffic. Turn left along here and the road will take you past posh villages, seawards again - until a path takes you away from the few cars and down toe the marvellous beachside swimming pool just in from Shoalstone Point.
Past the pool, a small lane leads onwards to the headland and, after swinging inland by the Berry Head Hotel, it introduces the hiker to a footpath which ascends through delightful coastal woodlands.
Now we have entered the Country Park run by the Torbay Countryside Service which, among other things has an informative visitor centre and produces a series of cheap and informative leaflets so that you can learn all about this most extraordinary place.
I say extraordinary because it really is a one-off landscape quite unlike any other I know. It is rich in history - as you'll soon see - and even richer in flora and fauna. It has a wealth of fabulous views and there's even a wonderful cafe in the heart of the place which is so good that it once attracted the custom of a Prime Minister.
The views begin as soon as you climb out of the woods and carry on until you eventually descend into St Mary's Bay, Brixham's little known cove at the back-end of town.
Having climbed to the top one of the first things you will come across is a massive hole - and I mean massive. You could lose the Millennium Dome in this brutal indentation. The quarry companies wouldn't get planning permission today, but in the dark days of the Second World War, it was a case of needs must. And for years after that - until 1969 to be precise - the quarrymen were nibbling their way into Berry Head.
Our path treads around this chasm and introduces us to the impressive ramparts of the Northern Fort. These were put up to guard against a land-attack in the Napoleonic Wars and the moat underneath the fortifications was filled, not with water, but with dreadful spikes to keep the French out.
It must have been quite an establishment in its military heyday, although not a shot was ever fired in anger. No fewer than 600 men occupied the garrison.
Once you've reached this part of the walk you are more-or-less bound to go out to the end of the headland even though it's a bit of a detour, and this means passing through the gates and marching the few hundred yards east to the lighthouse.
Next, the hike comes the Southern Fort with much the same story to tell as its neighbour, only it has no cafe but a visitor information centre instead.
Having done with the Country Park we headed off down the South West Coast Path to St Mary's Bay and, after a quick dip, walked around Sharkham Point before cutting up across the fields to Yards Lane which, in turn, took us to Higher Brixham so that we could return through the busy streets.
But you don't have to. If you cross the car park from the information centre you'll find a lane that drops down through a small wooded valley to the Berry Head Hotel. From there it's simply a matter of retracing your steps back to the harbour having enjoyed a short, but eminently worthwhile hike around the region's most historic headland.
Fact File
Basic hike: from Brixham out to Berry Head Country Park.
Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure 20 - South Devon.
Distance & Going: Two-and-a-half to five miles depending on whether you extend hike to Sharkham Point - easy going.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
Should go to Shoals
We had dinner at Shoals on the Lido restaurant located in the old cafe building above the sea-pool (mentioned in this walk) and very good it was to. Plain cooking but good. www.shoalsbrixham.co.uk
Walk to Walkers
David Walker & Sons (which means Dave’s son Neil and, actually, his son now works there as well) sell some of the best fresh fish anywhere in the South West region. http://www.davidwalkerandson.com/
Keep it at The Quayside
I was in Brixham working on an article about the port’s amazing fish dock and it’s seafood, and stayed at the Quayside Hotel - which is a bit old fashioned but comfortable - and which has wonderful views of… You’ve guessed it: the quay and harbour. https://www.quaysidehotel.co.uk/
