Nafplion: History and Charm in the Peloponnesian Landscape 🏛️
Many years ago,actually nearly half a century ago, I visited the town of Nafplion in Greece. That’s how we pronounced it but I see that you leave the final “n” off the name when you’re writing it in Greek. Anyway, we loved the place.
And it’s easy to explain why. We had driven from England in 1977 in an old Renault 16 which had broken down a few times along the way. It is a very long way from the English Channel down to Greece via what used to be known as Yugoslavia. We had turned off the main roads on many occasions and ended up following dirt tracks through what is now known as Macedonia and Northern Greece.
Nafplion, tucked away in the armpit of the eastern Peloponnese, came a very welcome haven. Many years later I returned and enjoyed a day exploring the town with a digital camera.
A Walk Through Nafplion’s Layers of History
Nafplion, located in the northeastern Peloponnese, offers a journey through Greece's layered past without the need for theatrics. Founded by the mythic hero Nauplios, the town’s importance grew under different regimes: from the Venetians, who fortified its slopes, to the Ottomans, who left an indelible cultural mark. As one of Greece’s earliest capitals in the modern era, Nafplion still reflects these historical overlaps in its architecture and street layout. Palamidi Fortress, high on the hill, remains a key symbol of the town, offering a physical reminder of Nafplion's strategic significance.
Strolling the Old Town: Discovering Character Without Ornament
The old town of Nafplion offers narrow, serpentine streets where influences mix effortlessly. Venetian homes stand alongside neoclassical structures, many adorned with bougainvillea. Walking through these streets, you’ll come across the modest but notable Syntagma Square, where traces of former municipal buildings and Turkish mosques echo past chapters of governance. The waterfront, meanwhile, presents a view to Bourtzi, a small fortress on an island that guarded the harbour—a legacy of the town's defensive priorities.
Exploring Beyond Nafplion: From Ancient Ruins to Natural Landscapes 🌿
The area around Nafplion offers various opportunities for deeper exploration. A short drive leads to the archaeological site of Mycenae, where the Lion Gate and royal tombs connect visitors to Greece’s early civilisation. Nearby, the Epidaurus Theatre, still in use today, embodies the spirit of cultural continuity and the importance of shared experiences in ancient and modern Greek life. For those who prefer nature, the nearby beach of Karathona—not overdeveloped but accessible—provides a more immediate connection to the landscape, without the distraction of heavy infrastructure.
Practical Insights for Visitors 🗝️
Visiting Nafplion involves an experience that rewards curiosity. Engaging with the details of its many historical periods requires a slower pace, one that allows for pausing at churches and climbing up to the higher points of Palamidi or Akronafplia. Comfortable walking shoes are essential here, as are brief but meaningful detours into small, family-run establishments—places that offer a taste of regional produce with little pretence.
