The Journey to the Iban Longhouse in Borneo 🏝️🌴

After an hour of travelling, some of which was at high speed, we reached the longhouse where we’d be staying as guests of the local Iban people. Even before our arrival, I could hear the welcoming bell echoing through the lush jungle. A woman and a child came down to the riverbank to greet us, and we were ceremoniously marched up the ancient steps, carved from a single log, that led to the entrance of the longhouse.

I was the first in line to enter the long communal living space, receiving the traditional Iban greeting of fluttering flower petals thrown over me — it felt as if I were some errant bridegroom. Soon after, I was handed a compulsory cup of tuak, homemade rice wine, which instantly set the tone for the festivities.

Exploring the Iban Longhouse 🛍️

By now, it was late afternoon, and we had a choice: relax in the longhouse or go for a jungle walk. We did both. First, we explored the longhouse, home to 30 different families. This particular longhouse was half built on stilts — its back end sat on a hilltop above the river, while the front was elevated about 20 feet above the forest floor to avoid the many creepy-crawlies in the jungle.

The Iban people are incredibly laid-back. They didn’t mind us wandering around their communal home, nor did they seem to care if we peeked into their private living quarters. These private spaces were behind doors along one side of the longhouse, while a wide communal area stretched through the center, and a long raised platform ran along the other side. This platform was where we slept under mosquito nets, thoughtfully provided by the Iban.

An Evening with the Iban 💡☕️

We spent the early evening sitting around, drinking green tea with the locals, watching them make mats, baskets, and handicrafts, and mend fishing nets. But as Henry, our guide, prepared our dinner in one of the private quarters, my companion and I decided to take a long stroll through the rainforest. In hindsight, this may have been a slightly reckless decision — there’s no dusk in the tropics, and if we had lost our way, we might have faced an uncomfortable night under the trees, surrounded by the countless creatures that inhabit the Bornean jungle.

As it turned out, that walk was perhaps the most magical one I’ve ever experienced. Being alone in a rainforest — or with just one other person — allows you to truly absorb the sensation of being somewhere incredibly alive and mysteriously exotic.

A Night of Celebration 🎶🍷

We returned safely, albeit somewhat speechless, just in time for an amazing multi-course meal prepared by Henry. Afterward, we joined the "Tuai Rumah" (headman) to spend an evening socializing. The Iban treated us to a performance, dressing in traditional headhunter gear and dancing to hypnotic music played on a collection of peculiar instruments. It was the only moment that felt a bit touristy, but then again, this was my adventure’s nod to eco-tourism.

And, of course, we were paying guests and had brought gifts, which had to be handed over with great ceremony — and plenty of homemade rice whiskey. By this point, I had moved on to the stronger rice whiskey, which made it easier to endure the painful spider bite I received during the dancing.

Despite this one unpleasant moment, the entire experience was magical, baffling, and enchanting. Though I didn’t meet the Wild Man of Borneo, I did discover a wilder side of myself — one that only surfaces in remote, exotic places like this. And that alone made the 30 hours of air travel and the jetlag worthwhile.

Learning the Art of Iban Rainforest Cooking 🍽️🌿

While I was in Borneo, I took the opportunity to learn more about authentic, primeval cooking from the experts. Deep in the remote hills of Sarawak, I met the Tuai Rumah and his charming ex-headhunter people. After some negotiations with our local guide Henry, the tribe agreed to put on a lunchtime picnic showcasing their rainforest cooking skills.

Bamboo Cooking in the Heart of the Rainforest 🪽🌲

Our first task was to find a shady and beautiful spot along the river for our picnic. The rainforest in these parts is the real deal — thick, wild, and not exactly conducive to a leisurely lunch. There were plenty of mosquitoes, snakes, and other wildlife to consider.

We traveled by canoe to a shingle island in the shade. The tribal boatmen and women split into two groups: one group headed into the forest, machetes in hand, while the other stayed behind to build a large fire. Fallen tree limbs were fished out of the stream to construct a simple gantry above the flames, allowing the soaked hardwood to survive the heat without burning.

The others returned with long, fat poles of bamboo, freshly cut from the jungle. These were chopped into two or three-foot lengths and thoroughly cleaned. Meanwhile, banana leaves, which had been soaking in the river, were brought into play. Handfuls of wet, sticky rice were placed onto the leaves, folded neatly into cylindrical parcels, and placed inside the bamboo pipes.

After adding a bit of water, the bamboo pipes were propped upright over the fire, their bases resting on the shingle while their tops leaned against the hardwood gantry. The process was repeated with other ingredients: beef mixed with minced chillies, garlic, ginger, shallots, and white pepper — all sourced from the local gardens. Chicken and vegetables, including giant green beans and young bracken fronds, were given similar treatment.

All of the filled bamboo pipes joined the rice over the fire, creating a stunning arrangement of 30 to 40 green "organ pipes." Nearby, a basic wire mesh grill was used to barbecue larger cuts of meat, including local favorites like chicken gizzards.

The Feast 🍲

After about 15 minutes, which involved speechmaking and toasting with homemade rice whiskey, it was time to unpack the hot food. The bamboo pipes were emptied, revealing perfectly steamed rice and tender meat and vegetables. The sticky rice parcels were unwrapped and arranged in a bowl, while the other dishes were served in more bowls and placed along a central plank taken from the floor of one of the canoes.

That meal, eaten with our fingers on a mosquito-free shingle bank, was one of the best lunches I’ve ever had. It was a perfect blend of adventure, culture, and culinary delight, all in the heart of Borneo.

Man on his way to breakfast in the Iban longhouse

Keywords: Borneo longhouse experience, Iban tribe, eco-tourism in Borneo, rainforest cooking techniques, Sarawak travel guide, bamboo cooking Borneo, authentic tribal experience, Iban hospitality, jungle adventure Borneo, Borneo traditional cuisine.

Ready to experience the magic of Borneo? Book your adventure now and immerse yourself in the rich culture and incredible hospitality of the Iban people! 🚀🌍

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