Devon Walks: Budleigh Salterton Circular

Continuing this short series of East Devon hikes to coincide with the Taste East Devon Food Festival, I have been remembering a walk I did years ago in the Budleigh Salterton area.

Walking up the hill west of Budleigh Salterton

I firs did the hike just after I’d written a piece about Budleigh being Britain's worst-value-for-money location. In order to write the article I spent a few hours marching about the main street interviewing people and, having purchased an extremely good value-for-money pie in a local delicatessen, I repaired to the beach for peace and quiet, fresh air and jolly maritime views. At that moment the sun came out and the whole Devon littoral lit up in a glorious way.

Looking west from hills above Budleigh Salterton

The newsdesk can wait - thought I, to myself - Hesp is off on a Hike.

This website has marched east of Budleigh before - across the River Otter and around to Ladram Bay before returning over the hills to Otterton. One of the best hikes in Devon, as far as I'm concerned... But never before have we wandered west of Britain's most over-valued town. The reason for that is two, or even threefold.

One - because the route to Exmouth takes in one of the biggest caravan sites in the West Country, and I am no fan of such Cubist vistas. Two - because the coastal walk is interrupted by the Ministry of Defence - the entire area of Straight Point is a firing range, strictly out of bounds to walkers. And three - because Exmouth is a sprawl that I have fallen out of love with.

Another view, directly to the west of Budleigh Salterton

But so alluring was the mercurial look of the sea, so exotic did Straight Point appear, so warm was the sun - that I took myself off in the general direction of the town at the mouth of the Exe. Not that I reached it. I found a splendid inland alternative instead, of which you shall hear more.

Before we begin, allow me to mention Mr George Mitchell - a 78 year old retired gardener I met pushing his bike along what passes for a prom. George told me how he grew up in the wooded hills behind Budleigh Salterton and how, during the war, there was an Italian spy who told the German Luftwaffe all about some mock aerodrome the forces had built somewhere near Woodbury Common. The bombers duly came and blew it all to smithereens. What happened to the Italian spy, I have no idea, but if anyone knows I'd love to hear.

My favourite shot of Budleigh - I love the beach fishing area

Having bid adieu to George, I set off up the hill. And what a hill it is. The cliff path that goes west out of Budleigh climbs and climbs. I had no idea there was such a tall eminence in these parts. It's called West Down Beacon and is well known among golfers who go to play upon what looks like the thoroughly excellent East Devon Golf Course. This takes up much of West Down as a whole, and the coast path runs nervously along between the border fence and the cliff.

Selling fish on Budleigh Salterton beach

I say nervously, because the cliffs are here are not exactly granite in their constitution. They are red sandstone. More sand than stone, I should say. Bits of cliff regularly depart seawards.

Halfway up the hill, the path veers from the cliff edge and passes through a rather scenic wood. This is probably a good idea. The wood is of the pine and scrub type that Winnie the Pooh would have known - if you've ever seen Shepherd's wonderful pen and ink drawings... More of Pooh later.

Suddenly we are reintroduced to the cliff-side as we approach the 129 metre summit. You will know you've reached it because you will see a trig-point situated just inland of the path. You will also know, because this is where you get the very best views. Not only can you look down on Budleigh and its tiny estuary to the east - and gaze beyond to Sidmouth and way into Dorset past Chesil Beach to Portland Bill - you can also look west across the gigantic Exe estuary and follow the coast down past Torbay to Berry Head.

The Otter exits the East Devon hills at Budleigh Salterton

As coastal vistas go, this has to be one of the best - thanks to the fact that West Down Beacon is situated at the apex of one of the biggest corners to be found along West Country shores.

My plan had been to go on to Exmouth and catch a bus back to Budleigh, but the Marines were shooting hell out of something or other on Straight Point. So, looking at my map, I saw that the public right-of-way heading north of the trig-point would take me into what looked like a pleasant wooded area. From there I could take a lane a few hundred yards to find the Exmouth to Budleigh Salterton Cycleway, which in turn would take me on a large arc around the back of the town.

Budleigh Salterton beach

This struck me as an excellent alternative and, having done the route, I can now assure you of its merits. The path from the trig-point offers fantastic views of the Exe basin up to, and beyond, Devon's capital city - and it introduces you to those pleasant woodlands. Be warned that you must cross the golf course at one point - so watch out for small white projectiles and listen out for people shouting "Fore!"

Eventually the path meets a lane and a minute's walk along this will bring you to the cycleway. You have to turn left and walk down a longish feeder-path for a few hundred yards before you can get onto the sunken track - then it's a matter of turning right.

It is, of course, a disused railway. To be exact, it was the railway that used to run down from the mainline, past Tipton St John (the junction for Sidmouth) and on to Exmouth where it linked up with the branchline to Exeter.

Classic view of Budleigh Salterton

Anyway, it bit the dust like most of our rural lines and now looks set to become part of what is known as the Southern Coastal route (National Cycle Network Route No.2). A website on the subject tells me: "The final route when built is expected to run from Plymouth to Dorset and beyond. It is planned to pass through Totnes, Newton Abbot and beside the Teign estuary, Teignmouth, Dawlish, beside the Exe estuary to Exeter, Exmouth and on eastwards to Sidmouth, Seaton, Axminster before heading into Dorset."

I look forward to it. I first wrote this article over 15 years ago and there’s no sign of this cycleway coming to full fruition yet.

Budleigh from the east

In the meantime we have to content ourselves with cycling - or walking - along this pleasant section to northern Budleigh Salterton. The path weaves along through a deep cutting and then makes a big bend to the east. After a mile or so it ceases and we are led away from the old line to a place called Bear Lane. I saw a board here advertising Pooh's bed and breakfast establishment - which seemed fitting for a byway of such name.

Down the lane I walked - regretting that the cycleway didn't go further - and then it was a matter of crossing the main road and entering the northern hinterland of Budleigh Salterton. You can't lose your way - it's simply a matter of heading through the housing estates towards the sea.

The only puzzle was why this town should represent the worst value for money in the country? It seemed a fine place to me - and it will to you if you have a bash at this excellent coast and country stroll.

Fact File:

Basic hike: from Budleigh Salterton west along coast path to West Down Beacon then inland to find cycleway which takes you back east to inland Budleigh.

Recommended map: Ordnance Survey 115 Exmouth and Sidmouth.

Distance and going: four and a half miles.