What Denmark Can Teach Us About Sustainable Food
A Taste of Policy: Learning from Denmark at the Danish Embassy, London
At a special food and drink seminar held at the Danish Embassy in London, I found myself thinking how, here in the UK, we barely score one-out-of-ten when it comes to joined-up thinking around food policy, nutrition, and sustainability.
Speakers at the Danish Embassy conference
That’s not to say there’s no progress. Across the South West, I know many individuals, businesses, and small organisations working tirelessly to improve access to local, nutritious food. Indeed, next week I’ll be in the Scilly Isles highlighting some of their achievements. And yes, British food culture has changed dramatically for the better—especially if you have money to spend.
Britain’s Nutrition Crisis: Obesity, Allergies, and Poor Public Awareness
Oysters at the Danish Embassy
Despite progress, we are still facing a growing crisis. The UK has one of the worst obesity rates in Europe, and every week brings headlines about food-related health concerns, from childhood dental issues to rising allergies.
Take the recent furore over slush-ice drinks sweetened with glycerine. It’s alarming: no parent would knowingly give their child raw glycerine, yet that’s exactly what’s happening. Children are becoming ill—some seriously so. Whether the government acts remains to be seen.
Starting the Better Food Event
Is the Answer a Nanny State? Not If We Start with Education
We don’t need a nanny state—we need education. If people, young and old, understood nutrition and the value of real, minimally processed food, slush-ice wouldn’t even be on the shelves.
The key is putting good food in front of people. Consistently. That’s what really struck me at the Danish Embassy symposium.
Danish snacks at the embassy
Denmark’s Public Food System: A Model of Organic Efficiency
One speaker, Anders Nicolajsen from the Danish Agriculture and Food Council, shared insights into Denmark’s public food system—meals served in government-run institutions, from nurseries to prisons and elderly care homes.
With a population of under six million, Denmark serves over a million public meals daily—on par with the UK in per-capita terms. The difference? In Copenhagen and elsewhere, over 90% of the ingredients are organic, and much is locally sourced.
High Organic Content on a Low Budget
You might assume Denmark spends lavishly on these meals, but that’s not the case. “The cost is between £1 and £2 per day, depending on the municipality,” Anders told me. “It’s not a system flushed with funding. We make it work through economies of scale and government initiatives.”
Typical Danish shrimp and pea shoot salad
The Organic Cuisine Label: Denmark’s Transparent Food Standard
One such initiative is the Organic Cuisine Label, a government-run scheme indicating the percentage of organic ingredients in public kitchens and restaurants. It operates on three tiers:
Gold: 90–100% organic
Silver: 60–90% organic
Bronze: 30–60% organic
This free programme is administered by the Danish Veterinary and Food Administration and includes regular inspections to ensure compliance.
“It’s all about transparency and trust,” Anders said. “Only kitchens with the gold label may call themselves truly organic.”
Danish halibut
Why Denmark Leads the World in Organic Food Consumption
Denmark is widely considered a global leader in organic food consumption. Over 14% of all food served in the country is organic—the highest percentage in the world. The movement is being fuelled by younger generations demanding transparency, sustainability, and locally sourced produce.
The Industrial Pig in the Room: Denmark’s Dual Farming Identity
Of course, it’s not all perfect. I raised a point in the Q&A session: Denmark is also a major exporter of industrially produced pork—the kind you’ll find in nearly every UK supermarket.
Anders didn’t shy away. “You’ve highlighted a real tension in Denmark’s agricultural model,” he admitted. Denmark is attempting to balance organic ideals with the economics of industrial farming. “We’re working on it,” he said, citing innovations in waste management, feed efficiency, and sustainability.
Organnic veggie burger in Copenhagen
The Nordic Kitchen Manifesto: Where Food Meets Ethics
The tension between tradition and industrialisation is also addressed in the New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto, created 20 years ago to champion:
Seasonal, regional ingredients
Ethical sourcing
Sustainability
Animal welfare
This manifesto has reshaped not just cooking in Denmark but also the food tourism landscape—with visitors flocking to Scandinavia to experience Nordic cuisine at its finest.
Dining out in Copenhagen
The Takeaway: Lessons for the UK Food and Public Health System
Denmark offers a compelling lesson: nutritious, organic food doesn’t have to be expensive, and it should be accessible to all—not just the wealthy. A well-fed nation is a healthier nation, and a sustainable public food system could ultimately save billions in health costs.
Classic Danish open sandwich
RECIPE SPOTLIGHT: Danish Pan-Fried Fish Cakes by Kamilla Seidler Trebbien
At the Danish Embassy seminar, we were treated to a menu created by Kamilla Seidler Trebbien, an award-winning Danish chef named “Latin America’s Best Female Chef.”
Here’s her recipe for delicious Danish pan-fried fishcakes:
Kamilla Seidler Trebbien
Ingredients for 12 small portions:
400g cod fillet
1 tsp coarse salt
½ dl finely chopped herbs (dill, parsley or tarragon)
100ml milk
1 egg
2 tbsp wheat flour
1½ tsp lemon zest (unwaxed)
25g butter
1½ tbsp vegetable or olive oil
Instructions:
Blend the fish in a processor for about 15 seconds.
Mix with salt, then add herbs, milk, egg, flour, and lemon zest.
Chill for 15 minutes.
Heat a pan with butter and oil.
Shape fishcakes and fry over medium heat for about 15 minutes, turning occasionally.
Serve the traditional Danish way: with ryebread and remoulade, or tartare sauce and boiled potatoes.
Danish fishcakes ©Thomas Høyrup Christensen
