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Valley of the Snow Piercers

Welcome to the Valley of the Snow Piercers. It sounds like the wonderfully romantic title of some Pre-Raphealite fantasy novel, but the phrase could well have been coined for real on the northern flanks of Exmoor some 800 years ago.

For that was when the Benedictine monks of old first brought snowdrops to this country. Or, at least, that’s what people think. There is no evidence to suggest snowdrops are indigenous to this country, but the first mention of them is found in medieval manuscripts written by the monks who called the little white flowers “snow-piercers”.

Today the hordes who visit the now famous Snowdrop Valley, tucked in a deep hollow several hundred feet below the flanks of Dunkery Beacon, probably don’t care much who introduced the flowers, or how, or why.

They are simply content to walk the short specially made circular path that runs for half a mile along the stream-side and admire the extraordinary floral phenomenon that each year blooms along the higher reaches of the River Avill.  

It must be the only valley in Britain that is closed to traffic annually, just so that vast numbers of people can go and gaze at wild flowers. So narrow are the steep lanes into and out of the remote valley that a mini-bus park-and-ride scheme is now in operation for the ninth year running.

Supported by Exmoor National Park Authority and with permission from landowners the Badgworthy Land Company, the Snowdrop Valley park-and-ride scheme from Wheddon Cross runs from the end of January until Sunday 23 February. 

Eric Norman, landlord of the Rest & Be Thankful inn at Wheddon Cross and a member of the Snowdrop Valley committee, said: “With the mostly mild winter that we have enjoyed this year, the snowdrops are looking great already and the buses will be standing by from 10:30 am to take people down to see them.”

He went on: “For years the Holland family from Timberscombe picked snowdrops in the valley, tied them in bunches and sold them in Minehead, with no great loss to the snowdrops.  However, with widespread use of the motorcar the valley became better known and, despite no right of access to the privately owned site, many more came to pick the snowdrops and caused damage.  

“Since the mid 1980s Exmoor National Park Authority has worked with the landowners to manage the site, allowing public access and improving the experience for visitors whilst encouraging responsible behaviour and attempting to limit damage.”

As for the Benedictine connection, it is known that the old priory at Dunster had trout ponds in the upper part of the Avill Valley and some people believe that it was monks who introduced the snowdrop there in the 13th century.  

Others believe the brave little flowers to be native – at least in a few damp and sheltered West Country woodlands, such as Snowdrop Valley.  

Writer Richard Mabey, in his famous Flora Britannica, writes: “Where it turns the ground white as in Snowdrop Valley, it is difficult to believe that the plant is not anciently native.”

Apart from botanists, no one really cares whether the tiny white jewels are British or not, what people are really interested in is: will it be a good show this year. 

Having visited Snowdrop Valley a day or two ago, I can report the carpets of white are in very fine fettle.

Sidebar

The shuttle bus service will operate continuously from 10:30 am to 3:30 pm - last bus back from the valley 4:30 pm. The service collects passengers from the car park next to the Rest & Be Thankful Inn at Wheddon Cross. The last bus back from the valley is at 4.30 pm. The fare is £6 per adult; senior citizen £5; children 5-15 £2. The price is for the round trip or the journey back up from the valley.