A short break in Marbella—a surprisingly wonderful town on Spain’s Costa del Sol. 

Surprising, because to many of us, it has a name for hen parties and that rather boozy world of short breaks which, in reality, is often exaggerated. There’s plenty of that in evidence, but Marbella also has a lot of laid-back charm. 

It also has a lot of very good food. Dining on the move in the tapas joints is, of course, one of the town’s must-do activities, although it is a tradition that has changed in recent years. By which we mean, it’s become increasingly monetised.  People who don’t regularly visit Southern Spain might not know this, but some resorts (Marbella is one) have done away with the traditional idea of tapas as a free snack served with a drink and replaced it with a new format borrowed, to some extent, from Japanese sushi bars. 

In other words, the small dishes are coded in some way, by a coloured plate or some sort of symbol like a shaped cocktail stick, and each of these will signify a differing band in the price range.  

By picking morsels in various bars this way, I enjoyed an extremely varied and delicious dinner over a period of about three hours, which added up to around £20, drinks included. 

On another night, once I’d joined my journalist friends, we dined at the fantastic Messina Restaurant which is reckoned to one of the best along the entire length of the Costa Del Sol. The Michelin starred location is something of shrine for local gourmands, and I could certainly understand why. Chef Mauricio Giovanini is a disciple of world famous Ferran Adriá and the fabulous 15-step menu allowed us to try different products, with different cooking techniques using the cutting-edge technology of his kitchen. 

It was one of the finest meals I’ve eaten in a long time. I loved the sea urchin with its lick of celery root water; the sweet bread served with creamy lemon stew and spinach; and the Iberian pork with creamy lentils and roasted onion.

All this was consumed after we’d had cocktails at the Amàre Beach Hotel’s airy and truly wonderful Belvue Rooftop Bar, admiring spectacular 360º views of the Mediterranean, distant North Africa and Marbella’s old town.

A Local's Guide to Marbella's Culinary Scene: Food and Drink Without the Hype

Marbella's culinary culture goes far beyond the image of flashy beach clubs and extravagant dining experiences. Hidden within this bustling town is a diverse food landscape that reflects Marbella's local traditions, diverse community, and natural bounty. 

The Authentic Tapas Experience: Beyond the Tourist Track 🍷

As we’ve outlined already, in Marbella tapas remain a central part of the local dining culture, but it's crucial to look beyond the tourist traps to find the authentic experience. In the old town, known as Casco Antiguo, you can find small, family-run tapas bars where recipes have been handed down through generations. Expect dishes like berenjenas con miel (fried eggplant drizzled with honey) and ensaladilla rusa (a traditional potato salad) served in simple settings. Places like Bar El Estrecho offer a more authentic glimpse into Marbella's tapas culture, where locals gather for a glass of tinto de verano alongside a selection of small plates.

Seafood Without the Fanfare: Marbella's Coastal Offerings 🦐

The Mediterranean Sea supplies Marbella with an abundance of seafood, available fresh from the local market or at one of the many chiringuitos (beachside eateries). For those seeking straightforward yet flavourful dishes, look for espeto de sardinas, skewered sardines cooked over an open flame, which is a local specialty best enjoyed with your toes in the sand.

If you're interested in exploring the market-to-table experience, visit the Mercado Central de Marbella early in the morning, where you can find vendors selling the day's catch—including sea bass, octopus, and red prawns. The market itself is a sensory experience, with the salt air mingling with the aromas of freshly cut lemons and herbs.

Andalusian Cuisine: Seasonal Ingredients in Marbella

Marbella's cuisine draws heavily from its Andalusian roots, showcasing the use of seasonal ingredients and traditional preparations. The simplicity of dishes like gazpacho and salmorejo highlight the region's reliance on fresh, local produce. These cold tomato soups are staples in Marbella, especially in the hot summer months, and are often served with garnishes like jamón serrano or hard-boiled eggs.

Inland from Marbella, the surrounding Sierra Blanca mountains influence the culinary landscape with locally sourced game, wild mushrooms, and herbs. At smaller restaurants or rural ventas, you'll often find dishes like rabo de toro (oxtail stew) or platos de caza (game dishes) that highlight the rustic flavours of the region.

Marbella's Wine and Drinks: From Local Bodegas to Gin Bars 🍇

When it comes to drinks, Marbella presents a blend of tradition and modern trends. Andalusia has a strong wine culture, and Marbella is no exception. The nearby Ronda region is home to several vineyards producing reds, whites, and rosés that can be sampled at local bodegas or specialty wine shops.

For a deeper dive into Marbella's drinks culture, explore the town's vermuterías where the traditional Spanish aperitif, vermouth, is served on tap—usually accompanied by a tapa. If you're in the mood for something more contemporary, Marbella also has several gin bars, where you can explore Spain's fascination with gin-tonic, a drink served with a careful balance of botanicals and garnishes.

Sweet Endings: Marbella's Desserts and Bakeries 🍫

To end a meal in Marbella, head to one of the town's many pastelerías for a taste of traditional Andalusian desserts. Tarta de Santiago, an almond cake often scented with citrus, and pestiños, fried dough coated in honey, are favourites among locals. The influence of Moorish flavours is evident in these desserts, with ingredients like honey, almonds, and spices often playing a central role.

For something a little different, try churros con chocolate at a local churrería, especially during the cooler months. This indulgent combination of crispy fried dough and thick hot chocolate is a popular choice for a late breakfast or an afternoon treat.

Embrace the Local Rhythm: Eating in Marbella

Dining in Marbella is as much about the rhythm of life as it is about the food itself. Meals are leisurely, and eating out is a social affair. The bustling restaurants along Plaza de los Naranjos offer an opportunity to sit back, enjoy a glass of locally produced wine, and observe the steady flow of life around you—without the need for extravagant culinary distractions.

Marbella's food and drink scene might be known to many for its high-end dining, but the authentic heart of the town lies in its simplicity, rooted in fresh, local ingredients and cherished traditions.

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