The Rock Inn, Exciting Makeover for Ancient Somerset Pub

It’s not quite a case of “if you go down to the woods today you’ll be in for a big surprise”, but this story has that kind of vibe about it. 

Let’s put it this way… There are a great many well-known parts of the much-visited West Country and, conversely, there are even more hidden, out-of-the-way, corners which very few tourists ever get to see.  Given that this is the case, you might imagine that someone wishing to expand a new concept in the world of food and hospitality would aim for one of the better-known visitor hotspots. Why chose a sparsely populated rural location for the seedbed of your idea when you could plum for a large town or a tourist-honeypot filled with potential customers?

Hesp Out West article as published in the Westerb Morning News and Western Daily Press

I was pondering this one day last week as I drove down some of the emptiest, leafiest, quietest lanes in England. I had been invited to a tasting lunch which was being staged by two Sri Lankan gentlemen who have just bought a relatively remote country inn. I was told one of the guys was a highly experienced international chef working at the highest level and that that his business partner was a successful man in the world of finance. So why, I wondered, had they chosen to purchase The Rock Inn at a place called Waterrow?

Leafy by-way enroute to The Rock Inn

Let me say… I am very glad they have made the choice. Because the multi-course tasting luncheon was one of the best I’ve enjoyed in my home county of Somerset.

Waterrow is situated in the peaceful and lovely no-man’s land that exists on the western edge of the Vale of the Tone. The River Tone itself is born high in the Brendon Hills - the easterly limb of Exmoor National Park - and, after it has been captured by the great dam at Clatworthy Reservoir, it descends through a series of deep ravines to meet the wide flatness of the vale somewhere north-west of Wellington. Throughout the early hill-bound part of its journey, the river passes a series of small villages or hamlets with lovely names like Huish Champflower, Chipstable, Stawley and Appley. Waterrow is one of these communities, located on the B3227 Wiveliscombe to Bampton road. 

The entire area has a hidden, out-of-the-way feel to it. This is Secret Somerset at its best.

What’s not going to be a secret for long is the food being served at The Rock Inn. It’s part of a new concept called the 3 Flavours Kitchen, which is being developed by internationally-acclaimed chef Chanaka Fernando and business partner, Chamila Chathura. The 3 Flavours idea already has a pair of thriving neighbourhood eateries in Barnet and Banbury - Waterrow outlet is the first to launch in the South West, with many more planned to roll-out in the near future. 

The Ceylon Lamb Curry at The Rock Inn

Chef Chanaka’s vision is to provide an exceptional dining experience that combines culinary excellence with a commitment to fresh, seasonal ingredients and local suppliers. He told me: “I come from a catering background in Sri Lanka, and moved to the UK in 2000, working for chefs like Gordon Ramsey, Marcus Wareing and Mark Hix. So I come from a world of big names, but wanted to build a reputation for myself. We came here and we felt it was a beautiful place that we could build up. And the local people have been so supportive. 

“We are working on the menus - the concept is about coming from three regions, from Asia (Sri Lankan) Europe (Italy etc) and Britain. We have already been discovering the local producers here in Somerset and want all our dishes to be inspired by local ingredients. Only this morning I was meeting with a woman who has a commercial herb garden locally - we are seeing some wonderful stuff.”

Chamila Chathura explained: “We wanted to find a place where we could bring the ‘3 flavour’ concept to the countryside - where people can enjoy what we are doing in a peaceful surroundings. We fell in love with the area and the building, which dates back 450 years. We’re doing a lot of hard work to bring it back to life - and that work is still happening. We have nine bedrooms here for visitors and they’re all being renovated. 

“We were wondering how the locals would greet us, but we have been delighted by the welcome,” he added. “They have been pushing us to open as soon as possible without perhaps getting everything right first. Which is fine because we can work at getting it right. 

“That is why we have opened without having fully finished the work,” he says, having bought the inn less than two months ago. “We want to run it as a pub - if people just want a beer then fine - but we also want to offer a variety of food. 

The wide ranging menu means you can get more or less anything to suit your fancy, from classic Westcountry steaks and rather exotic and impressive burgers to excellent vegan dishes and amazing Sri Lankan curries. The lamb curry I tasted was the best I have eaten in a long time, but there were other summery delights such as the prawn and avocado salad with a chilli and mango dressing that really hit the spot, as did a refreshing chicken garden salad. Prices are reasonable - a hearty salad (ideal for lunch) cost £11.50, while that superb lamb curry came in at £17.50. We had a superb sirloin steak for £25.

John Turner, chief executive of Visit Somerset, was at the tasting… “This was a sleepy vale until two weeks ago and I can see a huge transition - people will be attracted to this area and to The Rock. Places like this celebrate food and also celebrate local produce, alongside world-class culinary skills. Bring those things together and you create a really important driver for an area like this.

“This part of Somerset has some of the worst social-mobility problems in the UK and what is happening here could really have a seismic change locally. We need centres of excellence like this.”

We spoke to local student, Eli Hinder, who has been taken on by The Rock as a trainee commis-chef during his college holidays. “It’s a really good opportunity - I am learning lots and really enjoying it,” said Eli. “I was sitting on the fence as to whether I would have a career in science or in catering, and this is definitely pushing me towards the catering. It’s brilliant to learn about lots of cuisines from really experienced chefs.”

So… a win-win situation. And one in a lesser known corner of the countryside. What’s not to like? 3 Flavours at The Rock Inn is now open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  To book, call their internet booking line charged at local rate: 05603669529. 

(Food photos by Carlos Farinha)