Driving through the sunlit hills and dales of East Devon last weekend with well-known agriculture expert and writer Graham Harvey, we found ourselves admiring the countryside and agreeing that, if you could play God and you wanted to create a fabulous landscape in which to grow wonderful food, then this would be the blueprint.

The historic patchwork of well-watered fields which fills the sheltered south-flowing valleys tells you that this part of the West Country has been farmed for a very long time. Indeed, until quite recently the East Devon land of milk-and-honey was famous for its dairy industry. The rich milk that went into creams and cheeses inspired the building of entire branch-lines, such as the Culm Valley Light Railway which terminated at Hemyock next to a large dairy. 

As we drove ever south through the undulating landscape, so we saw how the area’s agriculture had changed over the years. Ancient orchards had been supplemented by new planting, and large vineyards now covered several south-facing slopes. And when we arrived at our destination our luncheon hosts showed us large baskets of fabulous-looking produce which they’d bought from a local veg-growing cooperative (https://inmybackyard.co/). Even the view from their house held culinary promise - we could spot the sparkling English Channel, which continues to supply the area with a diverse array of first-class seafood. 

To us, this rich and fertile land appeared to be the exact antithesis of all those poor and unfortunate regions in the world which we see on our television screens where people increasingly struggle to grow enough to eat. Even after a long dry summer which has caused the area to be officially classified as a region of drought, East Devon looked green and luxuriant. A little parched in places, yes - but nothing like the yellowing landscapes to be seen elsewhere in England. 

The people of this fertile dingly-dell countryside are very fortunate indeed. And it is right and proper they should celebrate the fact by staging an annual festival in honour of verdant East Devon’s food and drink. Following the success of last year’s inaugural event, the Taste East Devon food festival is to run from today until the 18th September. 

Award-winning venues, producers, chefs and restaurants across a wide area stretching from the Dorset border down to Exeter and up across the Blackdown Hills have joined forces again to celebrate the local food and drink on offer. Founder Members include THE PIG-at Combe, Darts Farm, Otter Brewery, Deer Park Country House, River Cottage, East Devon AONB, Donkey Sanctuary, Mazzard Farm holiday cottage complex, the award-winning Jack in the Green dining pub and Michael Caines’ Lympstone Manor. 

The celebration kicks off today at the increasingly popular Ottery St. Mary Food and Families Festival - a not-for-profit, free, event, organised by a group of individuals enthusiastic about local food and drink. 

A spokesperson said: “Driven by a passion for local food and talent, this event shares our wonderful local producers, products and chefs. Our key aim is to raise local and regional awareness of Ottery St. Mary as a destination for all things food and drink related, be that buying, eating out, or producing.”

And continuing over the next couple of weeks, the area will play host to a series of events great and small - from pop-up street food parties like the Sidmouth Eats event next Friday, to a five-course seafood feast at Topsham’s Salutation Inn (see recipe). There’ll be wine-tastings, brewery tours and visits to flour mills, cider-suppers, afternoon teas, coastal foraging trips and much much more.

Ruud Jansen Venneboer, Taste East Devon chair and owner of Mazzard Farm, which is located close to Ottery St Mary, told us: “Last year’s festival was a huge success! East Devon has an incredible food community, and it was amazing to see so many world-class businesses join together and really put our county on the map. 

“During last year’s festival, we had a whole host of events - an evening with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall at River Cottage; a Field, Fire, Ferment feast in Darts Farm’s new restaurant, The Farm Table; tasting Experiences and set menus at The Jack and The Green, The Salutation Inn and the Donkey Sanctuary; brewery tours and tastings with Otter Brewery; hands-on masterclasses and bike tours. The list was impressive and comprehensive and this year it’s bigger and better!”

Mark Godfrey, managing director of Deer Park Country House added: “What makes the festival such a success, is its incredible diversity. There really is something for everyone; whether you are looking for something fun to do with the whole family, an experience with a loved one, or something that you are able to go to on your own. Some of the events are ticketed, and some are open freely to the public.”

And another of the festival’s organisers, Fiona Moores, regional operations director at THE PIG told us how fascinating it was to work on the event: “We all have deep roots in local, seasonal produce and growing things, yet we learn so much from each other. It’s a joy witnessing the enthusiasm in the group - from specialists in farming, creating a product or service delivery.”

Fiona said that the main idea behind the festival was to be fully inclusive. “We want it to appeal to families and so we offer value-for-money and free events, as well as some that are a little more upscale as well. Given where we are with the world on the back of a pandemic, there’s an appetite to go out and enjoy each other - but with the recession knocking on the door, it’s important to have a line-up of events that suit every pocket.”

So if you’re in or around East Devon over the next couple of weeks, check out the festival website at https://www.tasteeastdevon.co.uk/ and make sure you take advantage of the events on offer. 

RECIPE

The Salutation Inn at Topsham is well known for its fabulous locally sourced food. Here's a recipe for one of their popular East Devon dishes…

Devon Crab Watermelon Gazpacho, cucumber granita

Serves 4

Crab

200g white crab meat 

20g shallot, finely chopped

10g parsley, finely chopped 

15g capers, mini or chopped 

15g cornichons, roughly chopped 

Granita

½ cucumber

2 springs mint

35ml gin 

Juice of a lemon 

Gazpacho

Flesh of ½ watermelon, chopped 

½ cucumber 

1 red pepper 

½ red onion 

½ red chilli, seeded 

1 clove of garlic, skinned 

1 tsp sherry vinegar 

Method

Start with the granita, ideally made the night before serving. Blend cucumber, mint, gin and lemon juice before seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Pour into a flat baking tray and freeze overnight.

Next day, chill your bowl - pick through the crab to ensure there are no bits of shell. In a bowl, combine the herbs, shallots, capers and cornichons. Season well with plenty of salt and pepper to taste, and chill while you make the gazpacho.

Blend the watermelon, cucumber, onion, chilli, pepper and garlic. Pass through a sieve until it becomes smooth. Stir through sherry vinegar. Season to taste. You can add Tabasco or Worcestershire sauce for a little kick, if you like. Chill in the fridge. 

To serve, pour the gazpacho into your chilled bowl. Carefully spoon the crab on top – either sprinkled or quenelled. Finally, scrape the granita on top for a final burst of flavour.

Taste East Devon Events Timetable

Further information found at www.tasteeastdevon.co.uk

Saturday 3rd 9am - 5.30pm - Ottery St Mary’s Food and Family Festival 

Saturday 3rd - 10th - Celebration of Sidmouth Menu

Sunday 4th -  Darts Farm City to Sea Taste Trail

Tuesday 6th 11am - 12.30pm - Garden Tour at River Cottage

Tuesday 6th 10am - 1.45pm - Lyme Bay Winery and Quicke’s Cheese Tasting

Tuesday 6th 6-9pm - Deer Park Cider Supper Evening

Tuesday 6th 2-4pm  - Kitchen Garden Gatherings at THE PIG at Combe

Tuesday 6th - Saturday 17th  - The Salutation Inn five course seafood menu with fizz

Wednesday 7th 6-10pm - Floral and Fizz Ladies Night at The NightJar Inn with Wood Barn Flowers

Thursday 8th 7-10pm - Field, Fire and Ferment Feast in The Farm Table

Thursday 8th 7-10pm  - Eat For Charity with Jack In The Green

Friday 9th 4-9pm - Sidmouth Eats Boutique

Friday 9th 6-10.30pm - South West Seafood Night with Sidmouth Hotel

Friday 9th 6.30-10.30pm - Otter Brewery Open Evening and Tour

Saturday 10th 10am - 4pm - Field, Fire and Ferment Food Festival

Saturday 10th 10am -1.45pm - Lyme Bay Winery and Quicke’s Cheese Tasting

Saturday 10th 4 - 11pm - Street food and sounds at The Forge

Saturday 10th 2-4.30pm - Vintage Honey Afternoon Tea with Blackbury Honey Farm

Sunday 11th 11am - 4pm - Meet The Miller, The Baker and Chutney Maker

Sunday 11th 10am - 3pm Scone Sundae at ColdHarbour Field Kitchen

Sunday 11th 6-8.30pm - East Devon Taster with The Point

Monday 12th/Tuesday 13th 12.30 - 3pm Coastal Foraging with Ebbtides Seaweed

Tuesday 13th 10am - 1.45pm - Lyme Bay Winery and Quicke’s Cheese Tasting

Tuesday 13th  2-4pm - Kitchen Garden Gatherings at THE PIG at Combe

Wednesday 14th - Lympstone Lunch and Vineyard Tour

Wednesday 14th  5.30 -7.30pm Sidmouth Distillery Gin School 

Thursday 15th 11.30 - 2.30pm - Sowing With The Donkeys

Thursday 15th 12-5pm - Garden BBQ at Heron Farm

Thursday 15th 5.30 -7.30pm Sidmouth Distillery Rum School

Thursday 15th 7-10pm  - Meet the Brewer with The Jack In The Green

Friday 16th 11am - 3pm  - East Devon Lunch at High Grange

Friday 16th 2-4pm - Lily Farm Vineyard Tour

Friday 16th 6.30 - 8.30pm - Spirit Pairing Evening with Sidmouth Gin

Friday 16th 6.30-10.30pm Feast at River Cottage

Friday 16th  8-10pm - Jazz and Seafood Evening at The NightJar Inn

Saturday 17th 3-5pm - Picnic at Pebblebed

Saturday 17th 11am - Sunday 18th 6pm - Courtney’s Big Pick and Open Orchard

Sunday 18th 1 - 7pm - Party at THE PIG at Combe