St George's, Grenada
And another place I’d like to visit again…
“Why Grenada? Because it is one of the loveliest of the Caribbean islands and offers a huge variety of things to do and see.” So says the travel firm Just Grenada.
And they’re perfectly correct. I’d recommend Grenada to any first-time Caribbean traveller looking for an island to encompass all that is best, most atmospheric and at the same time picturesque in that sun-blessed region. It is a largish island and just about every acre of it is sensationally beautiful. Moreover, it has not been spoilt by the kind of in-your-face tourism that has overtaken so many of those distant isles.
Apart from being fantastically scenic, the reason I'd recommend Grenada to a first timer wanting to experience an authentic taste of the region is that it is wonderfully friendly and relaxed. Which begs the question why it hasn’t been invaded by massive hotel chains offering cheap all-inclusive deals - and also has you wondering how long it will stay unspoilt.
The large, mountainous 133 square-mile island was a British Colony from 1763 to 1950, so English is spoken by the 110,000 residents - but it's the more recent history that may have, for a short time, slowed Grenada's development as a tourism destination. Not that the US intervention, which made headlines in 1983, is in any way evident today – the political shenanigans which needed a quick emergency fix nearly 30 years ago are distant history.
As for the hurricanes which can blight much of this region, Grenada is south of the main risk zone and so for the most part remains happily becalmed – although a bad one did hit in 2004 and you can still see evidence of it today. The agricultural industries, including the all important nutmeg and other spice groves which gave the place its Spice Isle nickname, were badly hit and there is much replanting going on across the rain-forested mountain slopes today.
You can find out more about the fascinating story of nutmeg if you visit somewhere like De La Grenade, which is a business that specialises in producing value-added items based on the fragrant flavour of the actual flesh of that remarkable fruit. For example, they make a delicious syrup from the material which surrounds the nutmeg and its mace – a fruit flesh which is normally discarded.
Nutmeg surrounded by its red mace
We learned about this and much else besides in the company of charming and informative Arnold Hopkin, who owns the Blue Horizons Garden Resort.
Me at the Blue Horizons Garden Resort
Arnold is a great expert on all things Grenadian – indeed he drew us up an excellent itinerary which we followed in our four-wheel drive hire car to all corners of the green and sceptred isle. Blue Horizons, which boasts luxurious accommodation in 32 cottages, nestles among lush tropical gardens that are home to 21 species of indigenous birds and is situated on a hillside just behind Grand Anse Beach, which is the largest sandy strand on the island.
Guests at the Blue Horizons can gain access to the shore by walking through the five-star Spice Island Beach Resort which is owned by Arnold’s brother, Sir Royston - and yes, if budget allowed you might prefer to be right on the beach in this most luxurious of establishments. But we enjoyed the laid-back atmosphere at Blue Horizons at a much lower cost, though did manage to book a memorable multi-course dinner at Spice Island’s beach-side restaurant.
Cocktail party at Sir Royston’s private villa
Grand Anse Beach is located at the southern end of a large bay and across the blue waters you can see the capital, St George’s. This fascinating, busy, town is well worth a visit - it is friendly and exudes the authentic charm of Caribbean life in all its steep streets.
The market square is the frenetic and happening place – loud and slightly anarchic, you have to be ready for the hustle because local traders don’t see so many tourists since a posh new air-conditioned cruise-liner centre was built across the road. Apparently the cruise-folk don’t bother coming into town for a taste of Caribbean authenticity now they can buy a few souvenirs in the of the cruise terminal.
We bought some local crafted jewellery, which did the anti-hustle trick because the stallholder showed me where I could buy a fresh made roti (a kind of Caribbean curry-filled pasty) then let me take her seat - and while I dined like some Del Boy far from home, she kept the more pushy hawkers at bay.
I’d also recommend a quick visit to the island’s museum which you’ll find in the heart of town – not only will you learn about the early indigenous inhabitants who have long since disappeared, but you’ll see evidence of Grenada’s many and various colonisations. There’s also a small and charming restaurant serving local food attached the place – though you’d never find it passing by on the street.
