Savouring Delights of an Austrian Sun-Shelf

The Austrian village of Ladis is perched high on the side of the Inn Valley on what is sometimes known as a sun-shelf.

Deep sunless valleys are a thing to avoid in the Alps, but here and there the great shoulders of the mountains create a kind of high plateau, or shelf, where both the morning and the evening sun shines a good deal longer than it does down below. 

The sun-shelf is on the right of the photo

The triple villages of Ladis, Fiss and Serfaus share such a place on the northern slopes of the Inn Valley. And here’s the thing that’s a real boon to walkers: this beautiful shelf is criss-crossed with cable cars, primarily designed for the winter skiers, but many operate all year long and they open up - in spectacular fashion - all manner of walking routes.

These can vary from lower forested affairs that take you along traverses to distant villages, to hikes at really impressive altitudes. In the case of the latter, the cable cars can allow you to begin your walks way up on the mountain. 

Ladis: A Glimpse into Traditional Tyrolean Life

Ladis, the smallest of the three village is where we stayed and it is a gem, known for its historic buildings, including the imposing Laudegg Castle, which dates back to the medieval era. This castle not only adds a touch of historical grandeur to the village but also provides visitors with a fascinating glimpse into the past.

The village itself is a tableau of charming, pastel-coloured houses adorned with intricate frescoes, a style typical of the Tyrol region. Walking through the narrow streets of Ladis, one is immediately enveloped in an atmosphere of tranquility and timelessness. For those seeking a more relaxed experience, the village offers several wellness facilities, including thermal spas that make use of the natural springs in the area.

Fiss: A Balance of Tradition and Modernity

Fiss, slightly larger than Ladis, strikes a perfect balance between preserving its traditional roots and embracing modernity. The village is particularly popular among families due to its wide range of outdoor activities available throughout the year. In the winter, Fiss transforms into a ski paradise, with access to the Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis ski area, known for its well-maintained pistes and modern lift systems.

During the summer months (which is when we were there), Fiss offers a plethora of activities such as hiking, mountain biking, and paragliding. One of the highlights is the "Summer Fun Park Fiss," a family-friendly attraction featuring a range of activities from thrilling slides to leisurely scenic chairlift rides.

Serfaus: A Haven for Ski Enthusiasts

Serfaus is arguably the most well-known of the three villages, particularly renowned for its ski resort. The village boasts an innovative underground air-cushion metro system, a rarity in a village of its size, providing easy and environmentally friendly access to various parts of the ski area.

The ski resort in Serfaus is part of the larger Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis network, offering over 214 kilometers of ski runs, catering to all skill levels, from beginners to advanced skiers. Additionally, Serfaus is home to numerous high-quality restaurants and boutiques, blending Alpine charm with a touch of luxury.

Culinary Delights and Cultural Experiences

All three villages offer a rich culinary scene, featuring traditional Tyrolean cuisine with a modern twist. Visitors can enjoy local specialties such as Tiroler Gröstl, Kaiserschmarrn, and a variety of cheeses and sausages, often accompanied by locally brewed beers or Austrian wines.

Tiroler Gröstl is a hearty, traditional dish originating from the Tyrol region of Austria, exemplifying the region's rich culinary heritage. It was originally created as a way to use up leftovers, thus embodying a practical and resourceful approach to cooking. The dish primarily consists of pan-fried potatoes and onions, mixed with chunks of beef or pork (often leftovers from a roast), all seasoned with salt, pepper, and sometimes garlic or caraway seeds for added flavour. The mixture is cooked until the potatoes are crispy and golden brown.

A distinguishing feature of Tiroler Gröstl is its presentation. It's typically served in a large pan, right at the table, often topped with a fried egg. This addition of the egg not only adds a layer of richness to the dish but also brings the flavours together. Tiroler Gröstl is commonly enjoyed as a filling lunch or dinner, especially after a day of physical activity, such as skiing or hiking, making it a staple in the mountainous regions of Austria.

Kaiserschmarrn

Kaiserschmarrn is a much-loved Austrian dessert, though it's hearty enough to be enjoyed as a main course as well. Its name translates to "Emperor's Mess," a nod to its royal origins and its scrappy, torn appearance. The dish is essentially a sweet, fluffy pancake, made from a batter of eggs, flour, sugar, and milk, often flavoured with a hint of vanilla or rum. 

Once the pancake is partially cooked in a pan, it's shredded into bite-sized pieces using two forks, resulting in a "messy" look. The pieces are then further fried until they are golden brown and caramelised. Kaiserschmarrn is traditionally served warm, sprinkled with powdered sugar, and accompanied by fruit compotes or sauces, such as apple or plum.

Culturally, the region hosts several festivals and events throughout the year, celebrating local traditions, music, and crafts. These events provide visitors with an opportunity to immerse themselves in the local culture and traditions.

Sustainable Tourism and Accessibility

A noteworthy aspect of these villages is their commitment to sustainable tourism. Efforts have been made to preserve the natural environment, including the promotion of eco-friendly transportation and the implementation of conservation practices in the ski areas.

Accessibility is also a key feature, with the region being easily reachable by train and bus from major Austrian cities, making it a convenient destination for both international and local tourists.

Ladis, Fiss, and Serfaus, each with their unique charm, come together to offer a multifaceted experience in the Austrian Alps. Whether it's exploring medieval castles, engaging in exhilarating outdoor activities, savouring local delicacies, or simply soaking in the breathtaking Alpine scenery, these villages promise an unforgettable experience for all who visit.