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Martin Hesp

Hotel Meudon, Southern Cornwall

Hotel Meudon, Southern Cornwall

Balance is an interesting word. The older you get, the more you realise just how important the idea of balance can be.  In China, where I’ve been recently, they talk about yin-yang, so on the plane home I was inspired to practice a bit of balance and harmony. 

For example, I’d been in the Far East, so why not counter-balance that by going to the Far West? In UK terms, that means Cornwall. So, I thought, west of the Tamar I shall go… 

But, also in the search for a bit of harmony, I was feeling the need for somewhere calming, beautiful and peaceful after all those airports and vast concrete Chinese cities.

Bream Cove

I’d heard of just the place. The Hotel Meudon is tucked away on a very special section of coast just south of Falmouth, and it seemed to tick all the required boxes. 

For a start, this is subtropical garden country. There’s no other corner of Britain like it. The hotel’s near neighbours are the amazing Trebah Gardens and also the National Trust’s gorgeous garden property at Glendurgan. Which really are astonishing places. 

Tens of thousands of visitors pay good money each year to walk around this duo of delectable demesnes. And here’s the really cool thing about the Hotel Meudon… It has its own subtropical gardens, tucked away in a deep valley which (as is the case with the two neighbouring properties) stretches down to the sea. 

It’s these highly sheltered and warm valleys that allows them to play host to all manner of plants which couldn’t be grown in the country outside a greenhouse. 

Where better to escape the madding crowd? What finer antidote to the teeming millions I’d walked among in those vast modern Chinese cities?    

In fact, the Hotel Meudon describes itself as being… “A world unto itself. Nestled in magical, subtropical gardens, a stone’s throw from our privately owned beach, the newly refurbished hotel is a secluded Cornish paradise.”

Located near the village of Mawnan Smith, between Falmouth and the Helford River, the hotel is perched at the top of its own gardens which hare tucked into a tree-lined valley. A ten-minute stroll down the coombe takes you to Bream Cove, the hotel’s own secluded beach. 

From the moment I threw my suitcase into one of the specious and comfortable garden rooms I knew I’d found just the right antidote to the mega-cities of China.

These seaborne valleys in southern Cornwall are among the most peaceful places in all of northern Europe. They really can exude the kind of peace and quiet that can be experienced in so few other places. 

How can that be? Because coastal Cornwall can be a wild and windy place. Often you’ll hear the boom of distant breakers pounding on the sea-cliffs and the whine of the wind in trees, eaves and telegraph wires. 

Private terrace at Hotel Meudon

But step into one of these deep shelter-zones and everything changes. Silence ensues. Even the birds seem to know that these are special places. Within five minutes of checking in to the Hotel Meudon on Tuesday, I found myself strolling through a veritable world of birdsong. 

As a bloke who lives in deep countryside, you wouldn’t think I’d make a big deal about a load of chirping and chirruping. But this was different to the feathered cacophony I hear in my Exmoor valley. It was far, far more intense.  It struck me that there must be many thousands of birds down there in the deep and dripping vale. I barely caught a glimpse of one of our feathered friends, but there were obviously in great flocks of little brown jobs flitting about somewhere in the stillness between the giant tree-ferns and the bamboo plantations.  

We spent a couple of nights at the Hotel Meudon this week and I loved every minute of it. Having undergone an extensive refurbishment in 2021, the hotel has been transformed into what the owners like to call “a stylish home from home”.

The Meudon was originally the home to members of the well-known Fox family, local Quakers who owned several large properties in and around Falmouth, including both Glendurgan and Trebah. At what is now the site of the Meudon, shipping agent Howard Fox joined with wealthy banker and MP, Edmund Backhouse, to transport plants from far-flung reaches of the globe. 

Although much of the structure of the main building dates back to this time, Meudon also incorporates two 17th-century coastguard cottages (complete with escape tunnel – apparently the local coastguards were not averse to a little smuggling). 

Strange name, Meudon. It’s said to come from a nearby farmhouse, which was built by Napoleonic prisoners of war and named after their home village near Paris. The original, Mowi do Non, became shortened to Meudon.

Anyway, as I say, I loved our brief stay at the hotel and look forward to making a return visit, perhaps in springtime when these subtropical valleys come alive with exotic blooms. The Hotel Meudon, as its owners suggest, is one of those home-from-home establishments where you can find yourself relaxing so deeply the cares of the wicked world seem to drift away. By the time our two-night stay had come to an end, I really had regained my equanimity and life loomed gloriously in one big harmonious balance.  

Find out more at https://www.meudon.co.uk/.

Finding Balance in the West: A Stay at Hotel Meudon, Cornwall

Balance is an interesting word. The older you get, the more you realise just how important the idea of balance can be. In China, where I’ve been recently, they talk about yin-yang – a philosophy that inspired me to seek balance and harmony on my return. After exploring the Far East, it seemed fitting to counterbalance that with a journey to the Far West of the UK – Cornwall. 🌊

Seeking Harmony in Cornwall

After bustling airports and sprawling concrete cities in China, I was in search of calm, beauty, and peace. I'd heard of just the place: Hotel Meudon, tucked away on a special stretch of coast just south of Falmouth. This tranquil retreat seemed to check all the boxes for balance and serenity.

Nestled amidst subtropical gardens, Hotel Meudon is situated in a part of Britain unlike any other. Its neighbours are the stunning Trebah Gardens and the National Trust’s Glendurgan Gardens, both well worth a visit for their lush, enchanting landscapes. What makes Hotel Meudon truly special is that it has its own subtropical gardens that extend down a valley, right to the sea – a place of genuine tranquillity.

A Garden Paradise by the Sea 🌿

These valleys, warm and sheltered, make it possible for a variety of exotic plants to thrive outside of greenhouses, offering a unique experience in Cornwall. For me, it was the perfect antidote to the teeming millions I had encountered in China's vast cities.

Hotel Meudon describes itself as: “A world unto itself. Nestled in magical, subtropical gardens, a stone’s throw from our privately owned beach, the newly refurbished hotel is a secluded Cornish paradise.” And that, it truly is.

Situated between Falmouth and the Helford River, near the village of Mawnan Smith, the hotel perches atop a tree-lined valley. A ten-minute stroll through the gardens brings you to Bream Cove, a secluded beach owned by the hotel – a delightful escape from the crowds. 🏖️

A Secluded Escape – Perfect Balance

From the moment I arrived, throwing my suitcase into one of the spacious garden rooms, I knew I'd found the right place to recover from my travels. The valleys of southern Cornwall exude a peace and stillness rarely found elsewhere in northern Europe. Even the birds seemed to recognize the special nature of these places, providing a symphony of birdsong as I wandered through the gardens. 🎶

Hotel Meudon underwent a comprehensive refurbishment in 2021, transforming it into what the owners describe as a “stylish home from home.” Originally part of the Fox family's estate – a well-known local Quaker family – the hotel holds a rich history, including elements of 17th-century coastguard cottages.

The name Meudon is said to come from a nearby farmhouse, originally built by Napoleonic prisoners of war who named it after their home village near Paris. The name has evolved over time, yet the sense of history remains, adding charm to the hotel's enchanting location.

An Idyllic Stay Awaiting Your Visit

My time at Hotel Meudon was brief but memorable. I look forward to returning, perhaps in spring, when the subtropical gardens come alive with vibrant blooms. 🌸 This Cornish gem truly lives up to its promise of a home away from home, where relaxation is effortless and the worries of the world simply melt away. After two nights, I felt restored, and balance was once again a reality.

If you’re seeking a place to unwind and experience the harmony of Cornwall’s hidden gardens, Hotel Meudon awaits you. 🌿✨

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