On a recent trip to Madeira I learned all about some of the culinary traditions surrounding dried skipjack tuna - known locally as "gaiado," the fish is transformed through a meticulous drying process, becoming a cherished staple that embodies the essence of coastal life and regional flavours.

I’d spotted the strange and unappetising dried fish in Funchal’s amazing market on a busy Saturday morning, and later on tried a dish made of the stuff at a lovely ocean-side restaurant called Basalto.

The Legacy of Gaiado

The preparation of gaiado is a practice deeply rooted in the coastal communities of Portugal and Madeira. Skipjack tuna, abundant in the Atlantic waters, is carefully selected for this traditional process. Once caught, the fish is cleaned, salted, and left to dry under the sun, often for several weeks. This method not only preserves the tuna but also concentrates its flavours, resulting in a product that is both robust and versatile.

From Sea to Table: The Making of Gaiado

The drying process is critical to the unique taste and texture of gaiado. Exposure to the sun and sea breeze imparts a distinct character, imbuing the fish with an intensity that fresh tuna cannot achieve. This labor-intensive method requires patience and expertise, as the fish must be turned regularly and monitored to ensure even drying and optimal preservation.

Culinary Versatility

Gaiado's rich flavour profile makes it an ideal ingredient for a variety of dishes. In Madeira, it is often enjoyed in simple yet flavourful preparations that highlight its natural taste. One popular dish involves rehydrating the dried tuna and combining it with olive oil, garlic, and vinegar, creating a vibrant and aromatic salad. This preparation showcases the fish's ability to absorb and enhance surrounding flavors while retaining its unique identity.

Another beloved recipe is "tuna stew," where gaiado is simmered with potatoes, onions, tomatoes, and spices. The stew's slow cooking process allows the flavors to meld, resulting in a hearty and satisfying meal that speaks to the island's culinary heritage.

Contemporary Relevance

Today, gaiado continues to be a beloved ingredient, not only for its taste but also for its connection to heritage and tradition. Chefs and home cooks alike appreciate its versatility and the depth it brings to modern dishes. Moreover, the sustainable nature of the drying process aligns with contemporary values of reducing waste and utilizing natural resources effectively.