Exploring Trebah Gardens: A Sub-Tropical Wonderland in Cornwall

Discover a Hidden Gem in Cornwall 🌿

Just under a quarter of a century ago, I visited the remarkable Trebah Gardens in Southern Cornwall to meet with the owner, the late Tony Hibbert. What follows is the article I wrote at the time for the Western Morning News.

Every now and again in the West Country, you can come across a spot that somehow speaks of another world. You turn a corner perhaps, and all of a sudden, you are plunged into somewhere full of bright exoticism. Our northern climes give way to the sub-tropical, and we are immersed in some dazzling, magical demesne.

Such a trick would be just about impossible anywhere else in the kingdom without the aid of acres of glass, but Cornwall is home to at least half-a-dozen brilliant wonderlands. Gardens that seem to think they’re far closer to the Equator than they are. None, however, offers quite such a geographical warp as the gardens at Trebah. Read more about Trebah Gardens on the official website.

A Journey to Trebah Gardens 🚶‍♂️

To explore this south-facing coombe in southerly Cornwall is to immerse oneself in a distant, far-flung sub-tropical land—without ever having to reach for a passport or a visa.

"Look at it – just look at it," sighed Tony Hibbert, who has spent the past 23 years working tirelessly on his 26-acre estate. He uttered this instruction with pride as we stood in front of his house at the very top of the garden. "When I first took in this view, the intention was to sit here enjoying it with a gin-and-tonic in my hand. But I never had much time for the G-and-T as it turned out; the place sort of took over our lives."

It’s easy to see why. The deep, mysterious coombe at Trebah seems to beckon, as you peer down from its brink. Perhaps it’s something to do with the waters that glimmer at the end of the valley. The flashing wavelets of the Helford estuary seem to insinuate themselves throughout the demesne. Learn more about the Helford River and its surroundings. There’s something about a garden that leads down to the sea—you cannot help but feel an overwhelming desire to stroll down its shady, sylvan length to the shore.

A Stroll Through Trebah's Wonders 🌸

Such places contain two of the world’s most beautiful sounds: the soughing of breeze in the treetops and the boom of surf upon sand. Even with your eyes closed, you know you are somewhere special. And you know this even more if you are lucky enough to be escorted around by Tony Hibbert himself.

Not only is the sprightly 83-year-old extremely knowledgeable about the wide diversity of flora that populates his wonderland, but he’s also excellent company. Here’s an example of the sort of thing I was treated to as we whisked around the garden on a private tour:

"There used to be some banana trees just here years ago," smiled Mr. Hibbert, pointing at what is now a crystal-clear pond full of Koi carp. "The then Prince of Wales came with Wallace Simpson and was surprised to see huge yellow bananas growing in Cornwall. He even bestowed some sort of medal on the head gardener, only for the gardener to be sacked the next day for wiring store-bought bananas to the trees!"

The private beach at Trebah

The Sub-Tropical Marvels of Trebah 🌴

The anecdotes continued as we made our way around the dreamy demesne—down through the water garden, through the many mighty bamboos in an area called the Bamboozle, to Ninky's Pool and Dinky's Puddle. These attractive ponds are named after two beautiful Dutch girls who had brave parents that helped Mr. Hibbert escape during World War II. Find more about Trebah's WWII history.

The WWII theme is repeated right at the bottom of the garden, where memorials pay tribute to the 7,500 brave men who set off from this very spot en-route to Omaha Beach for the D-Day landings. A small path allows access to Yankee Beach and Polgwidden Cove, where visitors can enjoy the watery vistas of one of the region’s most beautiful rivers.

Trebah’s own amphitheatre

Trebah's Unique Flora 🌺

Back in the garden, Mr. Hibbert introduced me to a rare rhododendron called the Trebah Gem, which forms part of the Queen’s plant collection. We then moved to the many different varieties of bamboo that grow luxuriantly in the warm confines of the damp valley. At certain times of the year, the bamboo grows at an incredible rate—with some knots on the stem representing a full day’s growth, stretching as much as a foot apart.

We were awed by the big South American trees in Chilean Coombe, enamored by the 'Handkerchief Trees', astonished by the magnolias from the slopes of Everest, and amazed by the 150-year-old Sequoias.

A Garden Steeped in History 📜

Trebah beach looking out of the estuary

The garden at Trebah first began to take shape just under 200 years ago when it was bought by the Fox family of Falmouth. The family, known for their extraordinary energy, created many great gardens in South Cornwall. Charles Fox planted the ravine as it is today, importing seeds and plants from all over the world. He also built a massive red-brick mansion, but only the original building remains today, housing Mr. Hibbert’s flat and the garden’s offices.

Later, the Hext family bought the estate and filled the lower pool with flamingos, bringing the gardens to the peak of their reputation in the early 1900s.

Trebah Gardens opened to the public in 1987, and by 1990, visitor numbers had reached 50,000 a year. See how Trebah has evolved over the years. That was when the Hibberts formed the Trebah Garden Trust to ensure the gardens would remain open for public enjoyment forevermore.

Visiting Trebah Gardens 🏞️

Work on the garden is ongoing, but recent developments have made a huge difference to the visitor experience. The new architect-designed coffee-house, restaurant, and shop area houses a large art gallery featuring work by artists inspired by this beautiful part of the county.

Compared to the price of an airline ticket to somewhere equally exotic, admission to Trebah Gardens is a great value. There’s even an exciting jungle-like 'Tarzan camp' for children who might tire of floral exoticism. Trebah is truly a must-visit for all garden lovers, especially those who appreciate a taste of the sub-tropical in the heart of Cornwall.

The lake at Trebah