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Martin Hesp

Exploring the Swiss Historic Hotels: A Scholarly Journey Back in Time 🌅⛰️

Exploring the Swiss Historic Hotels: A Scholarly Journey Back in Time 🌅⛰️

For those of us who grew up in the rural West Country decades ago, vacations were modest affairs — they often involved camping in tents or staying in caravans. These holidays were enjoyable in their own way, but certainly lacking in luxury or sophistication. Watching television programs like the early Saint series or adaptations of Agatha Christie novels, I became aware of an entirely different world — a world of smart hotels and elegant lifestyles, far removed from the considerations of waterproof canvas or the reliability of a caravan towing hitch.

Dinner at the Hotel Terrasse in Vitznau

A while ago I had the opportunity to experience that sophisticated world firsthand, and I found it one hundred percent enjoyable. 😎

The Allure of the Swiss Historic Hotels 🌟

The Grimsel Hospiz

A week-long journey through the Alps, staying at establishments under the Swiss Historic Hotels banner, felt like stepping into La Belle Époque — a period of European history often described as the "Beautiful Era."

From my arrival at the first hotel along the shores of Lake Zurich, to my final goodbye at an ancient inn in Zermatt, beneath the Matterhorn, I experienced a world that, admittedly with a hint of nostalgia, I am not accustomed to.

The Matterhorn

Elegance, glamour, and old-fashioned refinement were the order of the day throughout the week. We enjoyed exquisite cuisine while travelling comfortably and efficiently across the Alps using the Swiss public transportation network, renowned for its precision and service quality.

A Journey Through History and Opulence 🚀

I had been invited by colleagues from Switzerland’s tourism board to experience the offerings of Swiss Historic Hotels, an organisation that unites a collection of historically significant inns and luxury hotels. The aim is to maintain the authenticity and architectural heritage of these buildings through careful conservation practices.

In their own words: "What they share is their unrivalled experiential value. The buildings have preserved their authenticity and architectural significance — certified by experts — thanks to careful renovations and measures that align with recognized conservation standards."

For me, this experience represented the epitome of a dream holiday. Although I was part of an organised trip, anyone could easily plan a similar adventure with the assistance of the Switzerland Travel Centre (international freephone 00800 100 200 30 or email info.uk@myswitzerland.com). For packages, train, and air tickets, you can also contact sales@stc.co.uk.

Hesp exploring the Bel Epoque hotels

The Swiss Travel System provides a variety of passes specifically for international visitors, offering access to transportation via rail, road, and waterways throughout the country.

The Romantik Seehotel Sonne: An Introduction to Elegance 🏨

My journey into La Belle Époque began just 20 minutes from Zurich Airport, at the Romantik Seehotel Sonne in Küsnacht. The weather was warm, and visitors were swimming in Lake Zurich as I relaxed with a cocktail in the hotel’s private garden overlooking the serene waters. The manager graciously shared the rich history of the establishment, a history that began 400 years ago when it became one of Switzerland's first restaurants to obtain tavern rights.

We arrived from Zurich by ferry

The Sonne boasts a tower from the 14th century and an elegant ballroom added in 1839, both of which remain well-preserved. The hotel's guest list has included luminaries such as Thomas Mann, Franz Kafka, and Lenin. Interestingly, I stayed in what was said to be Carl Jung's preferred room - perhaps explaining the particularly vivid and intriguing dreams I had during my stay. 😴

Hotel’s garden by Lake Zurich

The hotel itself is a blend of historical authenticity and modern luxury. The rooms are appointed with antique furnishings, complemented by modern amenities that ensure comfort while preserving the atmosphere of a bygone era. The gardens, with their views of Lake Zurich, offer a peaceful retreat, while the restaurant serves cuisine that reflects traditional Swiss flavours with contemporary interpretations. It was the perfect start to what promised to be an extraordinary adventure.

Continuing to the Hotel Terrasse at Vitznau 🏖️

The next day, we embarked on our journey — traveling by train and bus to reach the Hotel Terrasse in Vitznau, located on the picturesque shores of Lake Lucerne.

Dining al fresco at the Hotel Terrasse

Situated next to Europe's first mountain railway, which has taken passengers up Mount Rigi for 145 years, the hotel provides easy access to some of the most scenic views in Switzerland. While Mount Rigi is not among the highest peaks in the Alps, it is often considered Central Switzerland's most popular scenic mountain, standing between Lakes Lucerne, Zug, and Lauerz like a scenic peninsula.

View from my room at the Hotel Terrasse

The journey to the top of Mount Rigi via the historic railway revealed breathtaking vistas encompassing the Alps, 13 lakes, and the entire Swiss Mittelland extending to Germany and France. After a light lunch at Hotel Rigi Kulm on the summit, we enjoyed a leisurely downhill walk for about an hour before returning to the Hotel Terrasse.

The Hotel Terrasse, Vitznau

Opened in 1873, this distinguished establishment is ideally located near the boat station on Lake Lucerne. Our dinner there was unforgettable — featuring a delicious local specialty, chestnut soup. 🥜

Light starter at the Hotel Terrasse

The Hotel Terrasse is an exemplar of 19th-century opulence, with a stunning façade facing the lake and an interior adorned with high ceilings, detailed woodwork, and elaborate chandeliers. Dining on the terrace, with its panoramic view of Lake Lucerne, was particularly magical as the lights of the surrounding villages shimmered on the water.

Exploring Lucerne and the Hotel Wilden Mann 🏛️

Our next destination was Lucerne, reached by a scenic ferry ride down Lake Lucerne. We stayed at the Hotel Wilden Mann, a historic establishment spread across seven interconnected historic houses in the old town, soon to celebrate its 500th anniversary.

Dining in the cosy restaurant at Hotel Wilden Mann

Lucerne is a city rich in history, with its medieval architecture, cobblestone streets, and famous Chapel Bridge. During our guided tour, we explored its storied streets, visited historical landmarks, and saw the Lion Monument, a poignant tribute to the Swiss Guards who died during the French Revolution. The city's heritage is palpable, and it is easy to see why Lucerne is often considered one of Switzerland's most beautiful cities.

Swiss soups are amazing at the Wilden Mann

HOTEL Crimsel Hospiz

After our exploration of Lucerne, we continued our journey to the Grimsel Hospiz, an inn with origins dating back nearly 900 years. The current building was constructed in 1932 after the original site was flooded as part of a major hydroelectric project. Today, the high-altitude Grimsel Hospiz has been meticulously restored to reflect its original 1930s design. For a special thrill, I recommend asking the staff for the underground route when arriving by public transport — it provides a cinematic, almost James Bond-like experience! 🚀🔫

The Grimsel Hospiz

The Grimsel Hospiz sits atop the Grimsel Pass, surrounded by dramatic peaks and glacial vistas. The stark yet beautiful scenery is both isolating and inspiring, transporting you far from the world of bustling cities. The hotel’s pine-clad rooms are warm and inviting, with panoramic windows offering stunning views of the alpine landscape. The cozy dining room serves hearty meals, ideal for those who have spent the day hiking or exploring the surrounding trails and visiting the hydroelectric dam.

Zermatt and the Majestic Matterhorn 🏔️

The following morning, we headed to Zermatt, traveling by train and bus. Before arriving at our hotel, we took a detour to the Gornergrat peak, which stands over 10,000 feet above sea level. From the top, you can take in spectacular views of the Monte Rosa Massif, which includes the highest peak in Switzerland, as well as the sprawling Gorner Glacier, the second-largest glacier in the Alps. Towering above it all is the mighty Matterhorn.

Village above Zermatt

The Gornergrat railway, which began operations in 1898, took us on a scenic journey through alpine forests, over impressive bridges, and past awe-inspiring glaciers. From the summit, we were treated to sweeping vistas of snow-capped peaks, deep valleys, and even sightings of ibexes. The Matterhorn, an iconic mountain that has fascinated climbers for over a century, commanded our attention.

After our high-altitude adventure, we descended to Zermatt’s Hotel Monte Rosa, an establishment rich in history. Located in the heart of Zermatt, the Monte Rosa was once the headquarters of Edward Whymper, the man responsible for the first successful ascent of the Matterhorn. The hotel’s heritage is palpable — every room and corridor speaks of the history of mountaineering.

Watching the world go by at the Monte Rosa

The Monte Rosa is not merely a hotel; it is an institution. The walls are adorned with historical photographs and memorabilia from the golden age of alpine exploration. My room overlooked Bahnhofstrasse, the bustling main street of Zermatt, with its charming chalets, upscale boutiques, and quaint cafés. In the evening, I enjoyed a meal prepared with local ingredients at the hotel’s elegant restaurant, followed by a nightcap at the historic bar, where climbers once gathered to share stories of their daring ascents.

Zermatt outside the Monte Rosa at night

A Memorable Adventure 🥰

My time at Hotel Monte Rosa, exploring the alpine landscapes and hiking to the base of the Matterhorn, is an experience I will never forget. Although I am no longer young enough to dream of scaling that imposing mountain, the sense of satisfaction I felt returning to my historic hotel after a day of hiking in the summer heat was immeasurable.

Dining out in Zermatt

Zermatt is a car-free village, and this adds to the charm of the experience. Without the sound of engines, the streets are peaceful, and the crisp mountain air is invigorating. Strolling down Bahnhofstrasse, admiring the traditional wooden chalets and sampling local specialties like raclette and Rösti, is a quintessential part of the Zermatt experience.

If you are seeking a Belle Époque adventure of your own, Swiss Historic Hotels offers a window into a world of historical elegance, timeless charm, and stunning Alpine beauty. These hotels are more than just places to stay; they are custodians of history, each with a unique narrative — from the tranquil shores of Lake Zurich to the towering heights of Gornergrat.

Enjoying a pint in Zermatt

Whether you are an adventurer drawn to high peaks, a history enthusiast captivated by the past, or simply someone seeking a touch of old-world luxury, these hotels provide an experience unlike any other. Every destination on this journey offers something unforgettable, blending heritage with the majesty of the Swiss landscape.

Ready to explore? Visit the Swiss Historic Hotels website and start planning your own extraordinary journey today! 🛈🏕️🌍

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