A Journey Across the Remote and Empty Chains

This hike was originally the idea of Dr. Nigel Stone, who at the time was Chief Executive of the Exmoor National Park Authority (ENPA). He invited me to join him to explore some of the work done to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Two Moors Way.

Britain’s Hidden Long-Distance Gem

If there were a competition for Britain’s most beautiful but least known long-distance trails, the Two Moors Way would likely win. A new logo promises the trail takes walkers coast-to-coast.

Though it doesn’t officially stretch ocean-to-ocean, this fact doesn’t diminish the trail’s allure. Starting at Lynmouth on the north coast, it traverses Exmoor, Devon’s heart, and Dartmoor before ending at Ivybridge. To truly walk from sea to sea, hikers must continue on the Erme Trail for 15 miles to Wembury’s shoreline.

A Missed Opportunity for Simplicity

The relaunch missed a trick by not uniting these trails into a single, glorious 117-mile ocean-to-ocean route. Simplicity in storytelling matters, but regardless, significant improvements have been made to enhance the Two Moors Way.

Setting Off Over High Moorlands

Dr. Stone and I began our hike above Simonsbath to witness these enhancements. Utilizing a two-car approach, we parked one vehicle at Brendon Two Gates on the Simonsbath-Lynmouth road, then drove back to Prayway Head. This linear approach is perfect for group hiking, freeing walkers from the constraints of circular routes.

Prayway Head: A Historic Starting Point

Prayway Head overlooks the young Exe Valley. Its name likely stems from ancient travelers’ prayers before crossing the featureless Chains. This perilous trek once involved boggy, dangerous terrain. Thanks to the Exmoor Mires Project, these landscapes are being re-wetted, restoring their natural balance.

Making the Two Moors Way More Passable

Heading west across Dure Down, we reached Exe Head, the Exe River’s birthplace. Bags of aggregate lie ready here to improve the trail through boggy sections. These light-touch engineering projects will ensure the trail remains wild while becoming more walker-friendly.

The Chains: A Sense of Prehistoric Wilderness

Turning north, we descended into a dramatic coombe dividing Exe Plain from The Chains. Just a short walk from Prayway Head, this valley feels like stepping back into prehistoric Britain. Amid the steep ravine’s isolation, ancient stone walls evoke an antediluvian ambiance.

Modern Solutions to Ancient Challenges

Further along the trail, we observed efforts to address the damage caused by cattle. Thanks to crowdsourced funds, a helicopter delivered aggregate to improve these muddy stretches.

Hoar Oak Cottage: The Capital of the Middle of Nowhere

Amid this desolation stands Hoar Oak Cottage, a semi-ruined moorland home steeped in legend. Recently stabilized by the ENPA and partnering groups, it remains an evocative relic. Visitors can now explore its roofless rooms and empty windows, feeling the profound solitude of its remote history.

Returning to Civilization

Our hike concluded by heading east across open moorlands past Clannon Ball to Brendon Two Gates. Ideally, given time, I’d prefer to continue to Lynmouth—the true start or end of the Two Moors Way.