Exmoor Walks: Porlock Vale - Ancient Forests and Micro-Climates
Introduction: The Sheltered Beauty of Porlock Vale and Horner
As wind and sleet blew across the landscape, I embarked on a journey to one of the most sheltered spots in the West Country. Tucked away in the lee of Exmoor's highest hills, Porlock Vale and the village of Horner offer a haven of tranquility, a micro-climate, and a soporific atmosphere that's hard to resist.
Horner Water painted by my father Peter Hesp
Horner: A Timeless Village Nestled in Nature
Horner, with its ancient mill, giant wheel, stone cottages, and elegant chimneys, is part of the National Trust's Holnicote Estate. Stretching from Dunkery Beacon to the sea, the estate encompasses coombes, river systems, ancient forests, hamlets, and villages, culminating at the grey shingle ridge of Porlock Bay.
Exploring the Ancient Forests and Coombes of Exmoor
The steep woods surrounding Horner Water make up one of the largest blocks of semi-natural woodland in the country. Internationally significant due to its vast array of lichens, the area also boasts abundant insect and bird-life.
Lichens are everywhere in the Horner Valley
A Four-Mile Hike Through Exmoor's Hinterland
Setting off from Horner's car park, I crossed the packhorse bridge to delve into the deep Exmoor hinterland. The riverside track leads south, gradually approaching Dunkery, Somerset's highest hill. Cloutsham Ball, a ferny jungle-like slope, divides the valley in two.
East Water Valley: A Scenic Detour
Grave of stag-hound
Instead of heading westward toward Stoke Pero, I ventured left into East Water Valley. After crossing a bridge and ascending the hill, I recalled nature writer Richard Jefferies' encounter with a stag 129 years prior to my, and I was fortunate enough to witness a large male deer right in the same location.
The Descent and Return to Horner
The path takes a gentler approach to the top and eventually leads to Webber's Post. Heading due north along the Horner Hill ridge, breathtaking views can be enjoyed before the path descends through a grove of ancient pines. Carefully navigating the tangled roots, I returned to Horner village, rejuvenated by the invigorating air of Exmoor.
Fact File
Basic hike: From the hamlet of Horner, near Porlock, south up Horner Water into the East Water Valley, ascend to Webber's Post, and return along the ridge of Horner Hill.
Recommended Map: Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure Map 9 - Exmoor.
Distance and going: Approximately four miles, with some steep sections but not too muddy.