Discovering the Somerset Levels: A Journey Through Time and Landscape
There will be many people reading this newspaper who love their own patch; the place where they were born and bred or the location where they’ve chosen to spend their lives. The problem is that you can become a bit snooty about other areas, like I did as a youngster when I had difficulty in understanding how anyone could feel any kind of affinity for any other part of Somerset.
The River Parrett at Oath
Childhood Memories and Early Misconceptions About the Somerset Levels
I lived - and still live - in hill-bound West Somerset, but my grandfather came from the dead flat part of the county. When I was a boy he had a sister who still resided there and every now and again there’d be a family trip to see Great Aunt Queenie on The Somerset Levels. I used to feel depressed by the idea that anyone could live in a place that seemed so dreary and… Well, flat.
Rediscovering the Somerset Levels Through Walking
Back then my brothers and I would ignore the huge skies mirrored by the great sheets of water in winter, and the vast flocks of birds which lived (and live) between these two all-embracing elements which are much diminished in hill-country. We could only relate to the absolute boredom of a Sunday afternoon spent among God-fearing Non-Conformist Christians.
Drainage ditches criss-cross The Levels
A Glimpse into Rustic Life: Memories of Great Aunt Queenie
Moreover, Queenie’s little cottage was what you’d call “rustic” - so much so that if I were to go into a schoolroom today and describe the way she lived, no youngster would believe that anyone alive in the 21st Century could possibly remember such a “medieval” scene. Talk about minimalist. There was nothing, absolutely nothing, designed for comfort. The two-up-two-down had bare floors and only a few bits of basic wooden furniture. There was no electricity, water came from a well in the garden. Poor Aunt Queenie… Her hand was chopped off in an industrial accident in a cheese factory, but she still managed to play the organ at Aller church.
Aller Church
Falling in Love with the Somerset Levels: A Writer’s Revelation
I was remembering all this decades later when I got a job writing weekly walks for the regional newspapers. An editor asked me to make sure the entire region would be represented - and with some reluctance I realised I’d have to develop some hikes in and around the Somerset Levels. And guess what? I fell in love with the place.
The Unique Charm of the Somerset Levels Landscape
There is something unique and special about this plain and its peat bogs. Something fascinating about the fact that, until relatively recently, it was nothing but an inland sea. Located in the very heartland of the South West peninsula, this flat, rich, alluvial place of pastures gave Somerset its old-fashioned name, “Land of the Summer People.”
Typical rural scene on the Somerset Levels
The Agricultural Heritage of Somerset: From Transhumance to Cheddar Cheese
It played a part in that most ancient of all human endeavours - the act of transhumance - or the taking of grazing herds and flocks from winter to summer pasture. No wonder the world’s most famous cheese (or the system of making Cheddar cheese) was developed on the edge of this fertile zone where the grass seemed to grow on nature’s steroids.
Hidden Treasures: Why the Somerset Levels Are Overlooked
The Levels might not be the Westcountry’s most secret destination, but they are, arguably, the most overlooked. Both the main rail and road links in and out of the far South West pass right across the plain, but comparatively few visitors leap off a train or leave the motorway. They are missing out - the dead-flat polders hide wonderful landscapes which are just as worthwhile visiting as any cove, national park or high moorland they’ll find towards the setting sun…
The Sowy River on The Levels
Wildlife Wonders: Starling Murmurations at Ham Wall
Of course, the place has become better known in recent years. The RSPB reserves alone have put The Levels on the map - and the winter starling murmurations at places like Ham Wall are now much-celebrated wildlife events.
Exploring Langport: A Trendy Transformation in Somerset
Langport from a photo taken 30 years ago
Then there are the charming towns and villages with their Flemish-influenced architecture. I do not recall Langport being much to write home about when I was working as a young reporter in Somerset 50 years ago, but now it’s a trendy bustling place with smart cafes and shops and even its own community solar-powered cruise boat which plies its way up and down the River Parrett in the summer.
Duchess of Cocklemoor at Langport
Looking out over the rooftops of Langport
Uncovering Somerset’s Stories: Floods, Festivals, and Fascinating Characters
Mention of him reminds me of the countless other stories I’ve covered, walks I’ve enjoyed and characters I have encountered on the Somerset Levels during my journalistic career.
The Great Somerset Floods of 2013/14: A Personal Account
One of the main news events, of course, was the dreadful flooding in 2013/14 when a great swathe of the area turned into England’s largest temporary lake. Indeed, one of the strangest journalistic adventures I ever had was when a local resident called Michael Brown came to collect us in a boat at Thorney, more than 20 miles from the sea.
Michael Brown in his flooded garden
Environmental Concerns: The Burrowbridge Choke-Point and Flood Prevention
Later, during the immediate aftermath of the floods, Glastonbury Festival’s Michael Eavis and I walked across The Levels to see the place where the Rivers Tone and Parrett meet. According to locals it was this un-dredged choke-point which had been partly responsible for the great floods of 2013-14.
Celebrating Somerset’s Eccentric Characters and Cultural Heritage
People and places… The Levels were just a small part of the huge South West patch I covered as a newspaper feature writer, but they did always seem to play host to a treasure trove of humanity, as well as stories of environmental interest.
The late Johnny Leach, potter
The Art of Pottery: Remembering John Leach and His Legacy
One of my favourites was my old friend, the late John Leach. The excellent Leach Pottery is still open for business and run by his family and colleagues - but I have memories of long philosophical chats in the kitchen, and of walks around Johnny’s own private nature reserve.
Aller Walk: A Scenic Hike Through Somerset’s Heartland
Many are the times I’ve enjoyed on The Levels since the days when I used to think it was a dreary kind of place best avoided. And I have just found a copy of the very first newspaper hike I did in the area, which is what reminded me of dear, long-departed Great Aunt Queenie…
Aller Walk Route Details
Basic Hike: From Oath on the bank of River Parrett, north-east along footpath to Aller Church. Then north-west along Aller Drove to Pathe Bridge, taking footpath on the left to return along Sowy River to the car.
Recommended Maps: Explorer 140 (Quantock) and 128 (Taunton).
Distance and Terrain: Four miles, easy going (especially when dry).