Cornish Walks: Malpas
Exploring Malpas: A Watercolour Wonderland
My travels to Malpas in Southern Cornwall may be rare, but when they occur, I can't help but become poetic. This picturesque village seems to be designed by watercolor artists, hanging over the river like a dreamy scene. Whether arriving by boat or car, Malpas offers a unique and charming experience.
The road to Malpas
Malpas Exploration Essentials
Hike: Circular route from Malpas to St Clement and back
Map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 105
Distance and Terrain: Approximately 3.2 miles; may be muddy in some areas
There’s no creek crossing when the tide is out
Boat Access: A Poetic Journey to Malpas There's something magical and other-worldly about arriving in Malpas by boat. For over 1000 years, the village has welcomed boats to its treacherous crossing, named after the old Norman French term for "dangerous passage."
The treacherous crossing, indeed, where legend has it that Tristan and Iseult (or Isolde if you prefer) managed to trick that royal husband of hers. The story goes that she had returned to the cuckolded king and was being taken to his manor at Blancheland (thought to be Goodern in nearby Kea) where she'd be expected to make a vow that she'd always remained faithful to him. Iseult was somewhere between a rock and a hard place, but being a fast-thinker and she arranged for Tristan to be at the crossing place disguised as a leper.
In Beroul's romantic tale he offers to carry the good lady across the river and in doing so stumbles and falls. They both wind up on the floor and later, when Iseult is asked, she can truthfully say that she has never lain with any man other than her husband - and, of course, the leper at the river.
Junction of two rivers where the ferry crosses
Exploring Malpas and Beyond: A Scenic Stroll to St Clement Venture on a delightful journey around the cape formed by the Tresillian and Truro Rivers. The walk takes you across the hill to the enchanting village of St Clement and back, just in time for a refreshing pint at the Heron Inn.
First part of the walk route
The hike’s first path is easy to find being just across the road from the landing stage in the middle of Malpas. For the first 100 yards or so as it climbs away from the river, you might wonder if you're trespassing in someone's private garden. But fear not, it is a public right of way...
I imagine that men have been using this track to get to the ferry crossing since time immemorial, so worn is the groove between the narrow hedges that ascend Bar Meadows.
Near the top of the hill it widens out and you can proceed north along a fine broad track until you reach the road. Along the way take a peek over the left hand hedge to catch a glimpse of what must be the very best view of Truro that you'll get anywhere.
Historic Tales and Legends of Malpas Malpas is steeped in legends, such as the story of Tristan and Iseult (or Isolde), who managed to trick Iseult's royal husband at the treacherous crossing. This romantic tale adds to the allure of the village, making it a fascinating destination for history enthusiasts.
Second part of walk route
As soon as you reach the tarmac road, turn right down a track marked as a public right of way. This descends to join a field which you cross to reach the far hedge, where another ancient path disappears down another well-worn groove towards the east. Excellent for badgers and people under the height of four or five feet, this brambly tunnel will deliver you looking like something dragged out of a hedge backwards, but otherwise safe and sound, to the hamlet of St Clement.
Uncovering the Idyllic Hamlet of St Clement The charming hamlet of St Clement is a small piece of heaven disguised as a Westcountry hideaway. The picturesque church, graveyard, and cottages make it a must-visit destination during your Malpas exploration.
The Secret Path Back to Malpas Discover the lesser-known riverside path called Dennis Lane, which winds along the water's edge from St Clement back to Malpas. This scenic trail offers a refreshing alternative to the more conventional hill route.
Tresillian to Truro: A Riverside Adventure Extend your exploration by strolling along the riverside path from Tresillian to Truro, and return by bus. This enjoyable journey showcases the beauty of Cornwall's coastal landscape.
Martin's Must-Visit Malpas Recommendations
The Heron Inn: A delightful establishment offering great food and refreshing pints.
Kea Plums: Sample the famous local plums and their blossoms in and around Cowlands Creek.
