Who doesn’t love a good Christmas market? 🎄🎇

I’ve been to the one in Bristol this week, and very jolly it was too! Give me a good quality German sausage and a large glass filled and frothing with a proper Pilsner, and I am a happy festive chap, despite the rain and the chill.

You might prefer a warming hot chocolate or mulled wine - whatever your tipple, European-style Christmas markets are one of the great seasonal success stories of recent years. Not surprising... They offer a great deal more in the way of Yuletide atmosphere than, say, a chain store in a shopping mall. 🎁🍷

Bristol's Festive Flair

The Bristol version in the central Broadmead shopping area, with just under 40 stalls, does a good job, as do many of the other Christmas markets I’ve visited across the greater South West in recent years.

These temporary villages, with their mock-log cabins and festive decor, did not exist when I was a lad, but a great many of us are glad they’re here now (even if Brexit did its best to send them packing). We have been borrowing many of Europe’s finer, cosier, winter traditions for centuries and there is something distinctly Brothers Grimm and Germanic about the annual Christmas markets. As far as a retail experience goes, they really do add some welcome bells and whistles to the annual purchasing frenzy. ⛄️🎉

The Magic of Tradition

Of course, pine trees, glittering baubles, and copious amounts of snow (fake or otherwise) have nothing to do with the traditional story of a babe born in Bethlehem. Nor do reindeer, elves-on-stilts, bubble-blowing soldiers, balloon artists, or even the yo-ho-ho of the white-bearded wonder himself (all to be seen in Bristol this week). But so what? We love it! 🎅🌲

In fact, some of us adults-who-never-grew-up types will go a long way to pursue a real old-fashioned Christmas. I am one of those people and I did just that a year ago. I travelled to the nearest snowy mountains to visit some authentic, traditional Christmas markets which, to be honest, are in another league to the ones on this side of the Channel. Some of the examples I visited in Switzerland last December have been plying their trade for centuries.

In Pursuit of Snow 💨🌨️

What really attracted me to go all that way was the promise of real snow. Not the stuff sprayed from a can, but thick white carpets which are the prerequisite of an authentic Christmas. In living memory, there used to be at least half a chance that the white stuff would decorate December 25th. Now, of course, there is a rapidly decreasing chance of a White Christmas. Yes, we had a quick dose last week, but it was here-today-gone-tomorrow. I am talking about the promise of deep carpets of all-embracing, somehow-sanitising, virgin snow. The kind which allows you to see Father Christmas’s footsteps leading up to the cottage chimney.

Switzerland's Yuletide Splendour 🏞️🎄

So when the Swiss tourism department asked if I’d like to visit some of the oldest traditional Christmas markets on the planet, I grabbed my passport. And you can imagine my delight when I landed at Geneva airport to be greeted by a big dump of gorgeously white and crisp Alpine snow. I was glad I’d packed every thermal bit of underwear I possess.

By the time we’d made our way to Noël au Quai, located on the banks of Geneva’s large and very windy lake (and awarded the title of “Best Christmas Market in Switzerland”), I needed every inch.

But the inner journalist was soon thawing, thanks to several heated slugs of Glühwein - made, as you’ll know, by heating red wine with spices like cinnamon, cloves, star anise, and orange zest. In French-speaking parts of Switzerland, it is often referred to as “Vin Chaud” - and the one I was downing included a noticeable amount of brandy.

The Fondue Experience 🧊

Later, up at Berne’s magical Christmas market, I enjoyed a Glühwein enhanced with herbal liqueurs. I was so impressed with these hot drinks I asked my Swiss guide why he thought they tasted superior to the mulled wines we tend to drink in the UK...

“It’s all about care and patience,” he replied. “Traditionally, Swiss Glühwein is prepared slowly, with the wine warmed gently to avoid boiling. Overheating causes the alcohol to evaporate and that alters the taste. At our Christmas markets it’s regarded as such a speciality, you’ll often find it served in specially-made festive mugs, which are becoming more and more collectible.”

After an hour strolling around Geneva’s large Christmas market, we were getting chilled despite the Glühwein, so were very glad indeed that our Swiss fixer had booked us into one of the heated marquees where piping hot food was being served. By piping, I mean molten. We were, of course, sitting down to enjoy the near compulsory alpine meal of cheese fondue.

A True Alpine Feast 🍖🏔️

At the Swiss Christmas markets, the dish of molten cheese and bread tends to be served at vast communal tables. The Chalet à Fondue at Noël au Quai is famous and the vast throng made for a wonderful atmosphere. I haven’t felt so Christmassy in years!

And what’s not to like about Swiss fondue? Readers will know that the classic version is made of a blend of cheeses, usually Gruyère and Emmental, combined with white wine, garlic, and perhaps a tot of cornstarch to help with consistency, seasoned with a touch of nutmeg or pepper. It’s often served in a bowl made from a hollowed-out loaf and is accompanied by chunks of fresh bread, which you skewer and dip into the hot, bubbling cheese. You should also be offered sides, like small pickled silver onions and gherkins. If not, ask for some. The pickles cut through the fatty, creamy cheese wonderfully.

More Swiss Christmas Delights 🍿🍩

Raclette is another quintessential dish at the Christmas markets. It not only showcases the high-quality Swiss cheese, but the serving of it is a show in itself. Raclette is both the name of the dish and the type of cheese used. It involves heating a half-wheel of raclette cheese until the cut surface is melting. The hot layer is then scraped off, often over a layer of boiled potatoes.

Those who haven’t booked a place at Geneva Christmas market’s hugely popular fondue chalet have plenty of other food outlets to choose from. And there’s a large lakeside drinks area called The Christmas Pub, which will be packed.

As will the collective Christmas markets 100 miles away in Bern. Seasonal crowds are guaranteed in the Swiss capital - a small but ancient city perched on a steep hill which creates a large U-shaped bend in the River Aare. Bern lends itself to Yuletide magic so much, they stage not one, but nine Christmas markets each year.

There’s the Berner Sternenmarkt, right in the middle of town next to the Bundeshaus (Parliament building). This festively decorated affair has numerous chalets offering seasonal delicacies and hot beverages as well as products from local designers. My favourite was the Oscar Elch market, which takes over the Ringgenpärkli park, overlooking the river gorge. In the snow, this really is a winter wonderland. Try the hot Gløgg (Scandinavian mulled wine made from red wine, vodka, and spices) and the homemade tarte flambée – a cross between a savoury tart and a pizza.

Basle: The Doyen of Christmas Markets 🎉

Last, but certainly not least, we were taken to the December doyen of all Christmas events - the mighty market at Basle - one of the most popular midwinter city attractions in Europe. Nearly a million people visit the central city each year specially to see the endless lights and stalls.

The festive extravaganza really does transform Basle into a winter wonderland. Streets and squares, especially around the Barfüsserplatz and Münsterplatz areas, are adorned with so many lights and festive decorations, they create an atmosphere you’ll experience in few other cities, anywhere. Around 200 beautifully prepared stalls offer everything from handmade toys and ornaments to local artisan products. The market is also a gastronomic delight, offering a vast range of sweet and savoury delights - including my own favourite, fresh roasted chestnuts. There are daily choir performances, storytelling sessions, and even a Fairy Tale Forest for the kids. 🥓💕

Christmas is taken so seriously in this city, that Basle boasts its own specialist store which celebrates the December festivities throughout the entire year.

Johan Wanner’s Christmas Shop is unique. I’ve never seen anything like it. Founded by Mr Wanner, the shop offers a vast collection of ornaments, nativity scenes, and festive decorations. It’s a kind of mad Aladdin’s Cave, with ornaments hanging from almost every inch of ceiling and shelving, and so many glittering lights and decorations it is possible, for those of a frail disposition, to experience a sensory overload. I found the place just a little bit over the top, but who am I to make such observations?

A Christmas Wonderland 🎄💫

A gloomy old Englishman, that’s who. And I must be wrong because Christmas lovers flock from all around the globe to visit Johann’s shop and have their photos taken in front of its ornate windows. I was able to speak with the man himself (now in his 80s) and, as he looked around at his treasure trove, Mr Wanner told me, “This is a place where the holiday spirit is alive throughout the year - we really do offer a unique experience to all those who visit.”

No arguing with that. Looking at him, and listening to those words in his crazy Christmas emporium, I thought: the world doesn’t get more Christmassy than this.

Then the idea struck me that, actually, it doesn’t get much more Christmassy than the whole of Switzerland. At least, if you’re lucky enough to visit in December. ❄️💜

To find out more about the Christmas Markets of Switzerland, visit My Switzerland Christmas Markets.