Home of the Vikings

It’s amazing how things can stick in your mind, even if they are all to do with ancient history. I was thinking this recently when I snapped our photo of a Viking long boat on its moorings on a lake in deepest darkest Jutland and it reminded me of my childhood. Just opposite my old West Country school there was a field called Battle Gore, the legend of which used to fill us boys with wonder and awe. A huge battle was once fought right there in our own little village. Wow! And it wasn’t just the boys who were impressed - the powers-that-be later changed the name of the school to Danesfield. 

King Harald Bluetooth had the name “Denmark” engraved on a giant rune stone

So there you have it… The Danes, or Vikings, or whoever those people who were who came pillaging and causing so much historic mayhem in their beautiful long boats, definitely made an impression on us West Somerset lads. 

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So you can image my reaction when the UK’s representative for Danish Tourism called to say: “If you’re interested in the Danes, why not come on a trip to the very heart of Jutland where we will show you the epicentre of the Viking world and you can find out more about what those adventurous folk were all about. Indeed, Kongernes Jelling - the home of the Viking Kings - is the birthplace of Denmark itself.”  

I accepted the invitation with much enthusiasm, but with one proviso: that I should travel to the home of the Danes by train rather than by plane. You see, I wanted to discover just how easy it would be to go on an interesting trip abroad in a manner that would not cost the planet more air-miles and inevitable carbon-burning. 

View from train entering Denmark

The answer turns out to be: very easy and pleasurable. If, and it is a big IF - the trains are running on time and there are no delays. I would have thoroughly enjoyed my day-and-a-half journey to central Jutland via Amsterdam (overnighting in Hamburg), had a two-hour delay on the first service not had a domino effect on all the others, with the result that I reached Hamburg at midnight rather than early evening and so missed the dinner I’d booked in a well known restaurant. However, the next morning I did have a few hours to explore the old German port which was pleasant enough, and also met two ladies on the train to Kolding in central Denmark who told me they’d just done an entire month’s Interrailing all round Europe and had not experienced a single hiccup or delay.  So the answer to my question was that it’s not only possible to do Europe by train, it can be highly enjoyable and probably usually is.  

Lake and castle at Kolding

That was my conclusion as I disembarked at the aforementioned Kolding, which is a handsome harbour-and-university town on the sheltered shores of the Baltic. I say, sheltered because it is actually on the shores of a channel called the Little Belt - a stretch of water which separates the main north pointing finger of Jutland with the island of Funen. Had I stayed on the train, by the way, it would have crossed the Little Belt to traverse Funen, then cross the larger Great Belt to reach the even bigger island of Zealand, which plays host to Copenhagen.

I can tell you about that rail bridge over the Little Belt, because one of this region’s must-do tourist attractions is to take a rather exciting guided walk along its massive steel superstructure. Not an experience for anyone who lacks a head for heights. You hand over everything you are caring, such as mobile phones, then don disposable overalls and harnesses so that you can march among the catwalks some 200 feet above the waves. Rather enjoyable and most exhilarating, specially when an express train rattles the whole shooting match and also when you peer far below and see porpoises leaping around the deep narrow sea-channel.  

But my Danish adventure began at Kolding, a rather gentle and pleasant introduction to this scenic region. In a nutshell, the town offers a blend of history, modern art, and natural beauty. With its deep historical roots and contemporary cultural offerings, Kolding is sometimes billed as a “must-visit destination for travellers seeking a comprehensive Danish experience”.

This is partly due to the fact that, looming above the town’s central lake, is the vast and impressive Koldinghus, a castle boasting over 750 years of history. Once a pivotal royal stronghold, the place has been meticulously restored and transformed into a modern museum. 

Were they ghosts at Kolding Castle

Kolding is also home to Trapholt Museum of Modern Art and Design - a remarkable place which showcases works by renowned Danish designers such as Arne Jacobsen and Verner Panton. If you love Scandi-style interior design and furniture, then this is the place for you - its extensive collection of Danish furniture, design and modern art provides an inspiring experience.

This year the museum has been featuring a special exhibition devoted to Ninna Ditzel, one of Denmark’s most influential designers. I must admit I’d not heard of her before, but I soon recognised her far-reaching influence which can be seen all around the globe. From basic chair designs to dazzling ceramics, from avant-garde table tops to egg-shaped hanging seat, Ninna had a hand in almost everything. 

We lunched at the museum’s excellent restaurant, which enjoys a spectacular view of the Kolding fjord.

Next stop on our tour was another harbour town, Vejle, located in the next small fjord to the north. It is a charming place - I very much enjoyed exploring its busy streets and staying at the stylish Zleep Hotel which is located in a modern block down in the harbour area.

The famous Fjordenhus

From its scenic windows, we could see the famous Fjordenhus, a striking architectural marvel designed by Danish-Icelandic artist Olafur Eliasson. Inaugurated in 2018, this landmark offers stunning views and houses the Michelin-starred restaurant LYST on its first floor.

Looking down at Fredericia from the old fort

We also took the opportunity to visit Fredericia, where we were given a guided tour of this well-preserved fortress town which used to command the Little Belt area. You could see how it would once have been one of the most busy ports in the country, before they built the first Little Belt Bridge (the one with the guided tours and the one which still carries the trains) and the vast new road crossing.

Crossing the Little Belt Bridge

Back at Vejle we were taken to the Restaurant Nögen which specialises in serving food that would otherwise go to the landfill Which doesn’t sound exactly appetising but the clever chefs do a very good job indeed with the highly seasonal ingredients.

Hesp and colleagues from BGTW at LEGO House

While staying at Vejle we also visited the Fary Lochan Distillery so that we could sample a very decent Danish whisky. Which set up nicely for another tour - this time to the vast and incredibly busy LEGO House in Billund. This, by the way, is not the world famous LEGO Land which is suited on the outskirts of town, but the relatively new museum where you can learn all about the story of the world’s favourite plastic toy brick. And it’s all a great deal more fascinating than I’m making it sound - the interactive experience is perfect for families, offering hands-on activities, immersive exhibits, and a celebration of imagination and play. Through new technology, the creations can come alive on a screen. The massive new building, designed to look as if it’s made of LEGO, is divided into three zones where visitors can build just about anything out of the inspirational bricks or even produce a LEGO inspired movie.

The Massive LEGO tree at the LEGO House

A wonderful place for my grandsons in a few years time, no doubt. But for me, the really big draw in this area of Jutland was the Jelling Monuments and the experience centre at Kongernes Jelling, where you can learn all about the home of the Viking Kings. 

Guide at the Jelling Rune Stone

Back in the tenth century, King Harald Bluetooth (and yes, the computer software is named after him) had the name “Denmark” engraved on a giant rune stone in this auspicious place. It was the first time the nation’s name was written down anywhere (as far as anyone knows), and you can still see this most treasured of Scandinavian rocks sitting in its own air conditioned  armoured glass case today. 

Old Bluetooth didn’t hang about. Like so many kings and leaders throughout history, he wanted to leave his own big mark on the landscape which, in Jelling’s case, came in the shape of a mile-long giant Viking boat-shaped earthwork and fortress, complete with two vast barrows and a church. The Jelling Monument is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the state-of-the-art visitor centre offers an impressive array of modern digital sensory experiences which interpret the complex history of the place. 

All a very long way from memories of the small West Country boy who used to gaze at the hillocks and hummocks of Battle Gore with so much awe. The few hours I spent at Jelling recently really did put those scary and mystical Danes in a much clearer perspective. 

I was only there a few days but I realised I really had been to the heart of Denmark - and what’s more I’d reached it by train rather than plane.

FACT FILE

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