A startling thing happened to me the other day - I was in the middle of a capital city when I was awakened from my early-morning reverie by the one and only cuckoo I’ve heard this year. 

We used to hear cuckoos every year in our Exmoor valley, indeed, several of my neighbours have heard the unique and inspiring call this spring, but I haven’t and I miss the old bird. So you can imagine my surprise when, right bang in the middle of Copenhagen, I heard it’s optimistic cry.

There was a reason I doubted my own ears for a moment. I was strolling around the area called Christiania which, as many of you will know, is the famous hippie quarter of that fair city. And even though it was early on Sunday morning, I could sniff the strange herbal, earthy, miasma of marijuana smoke. So the moment the bird let rip, I was thinking: “Blimey Hespie…. You must be stoned on the fumes coming out of all these much-graffitied houses!”

However, I realised that hallucinations and apparitions caused by second-hand dope smoke wafting about in the open air were most unlikely, so I pressed record on my phone’s video app just to prove to myself and anyone else interested that I really was hearing a cuckoo call right there in a large and busy city.

Perhaps the location isn’t quite so surprising when you know that the rear of the Christiania area is ringed by a large rampart from some bygone age and a lake. It’s all been left to go semi-wild - there are woods and thickets - so the place is a haven for wildlife.

Unexpected magical moments… I’d spend my life collecting them if I could - they add a sparkle to proceedings and make life worth living. You certainly do not need dope smoke in your lungs to inspire such things or to help you enjoy them when they do occur. 

Which brings me to the two elderly ladies I met during the lengthy train journey I endured (and mentioned in last week’s column) on my way to Denmark. It seemed unlikely, but I did wonder if the pair hadn’t been smoking the old weed just previous to climbing aboard the Hamburg to Copenhagen express. 

Why? Because we’d got chatting, as people do when travelling in those old-fashioned sealed-off compartments that all trains had years ago and some still do. The ladies asked why I was visiting their country. When I told them I was on a press trip designed to introduce British journalists to the glories of an area called the Triangle Region they demanded, in a very jolly way, to examine my itinerary. I handed them the Danish version and after a minute or two they both began to roar with laughter.

I couldn’t imagine what could possibly be inspiring such merriment, but the laughter soon turned into an almost hysterical gasping for breath as the tears flowed. Why? What could possibly be causing such hilarity in a simple listing of visits to restaurants, tourist attractions and castles? That’s when I began to suspect they may have been puffing on something stronger than a cigarette before boarding the train.

Eventually, one of them managed to control her laughter for long enough to explain… “They have apparently booked you into a nudist restaurant where the wearing of clothes is banned. You and your journalist colleagues are going to be naked!”

I was pretty shocked, I can tell you. And all I could think to say was something about hoping the restaurant wouldn’t be too cold - which, from a male point of view is very much not what you want in a bare-it-all-situation. When I muttered the words, “diminutive in size anyway” the two old ladies collapsed even further into mirth. 

So I sat there remembering an old joke from years ago - one which did the rounds when “streaking” became a strange and unlikely pastime. It features two old military types who are attending a hunt ball and chatting when a 90-year-old woman runs by, naked as the day she was born. The joke explained that she’d seen streakers on TV and, being a bit of an exhibitionist, she was determined to have a go at it before going to that inevitable nudist camp in the sky. 

As she flitted past, one old colonel looked at the other and barked: “What the devil was that?” The other shrugged and said: “Dunno. Whatever it was, it needed a damned good ironing!”

I told the two Danish ladies this joke just before they alighted from the train and it had them falling about with laughter to such an extent they were still in stitches on the platform as they waved and cried: “Enjoy your naked lunch, Martin!”

I fretted about that nudist meal, until my Danish minder said: “Don’t be daft. Those ladies must have read it completely wrong. We’re going to a restaurant where everything is stripped back. The food and the service, that is. Nothing to do with nudity.”

One flew over the cuckoo’s nest. That was how I felt. You don’t need dope smoke to sometimes feel a little unhinged. 

Christiania: Fact File

Overview

Christiania, also known as Freetown Christiania, is a self-proclaimed autonomous neighborhood located in the borough of Christianshavn in Copenhagen, Denmark. Known for its alternative lifestyle, colorful houses, and unique community rules, Christiania has become a significant cultural and historical landmark.

Founding and Early History

• Established: September 26, 1971

• Founders: A group of hippies and squatters

• Location: Former military barracks and parts of the city ramparts

Key Historical Milestones

1. 1971: The area was taken over by a group of activists, artists, and squatters who sought to create an alternative society based on communal living.

2. 1972: Christiania's status as a social experiment was recognized by the Danish government, which tolerated its presence despite its unofficial status.

3. 1989: The Danish Parliament passed the Christiania Law, legalising the collective settlement while maintaining some state control.

4. 2004: Efforts to normalise Christiania's status led to conflicts between residents and the government, resulting in various protests and legal battles.

5. 2011: Christiania's residents collectively purchased the land from the state to maintain its autonomy through the Foundation Freetown Christiania.

Culture and Lifestyle

• Communal Living: Residents share resources and responsibilities, adhering to a community-driven decision-making process.

• Art and Architecture: Christiania is known for its vibrant street art, murals, and eclectic, handmade houses.

• Green Spaces: The area is characterized by lush greenery, gardens, and a focus on sustainability and environmental consciousness.

Notable Features

• Pusher Street: Famous for its open cannabis trade, which operates in a legal grey area. The sale of hard drugs is strictly prohibited by the community - when I was there a sign declared this street had been closed because of unscrupulous and sometimes violent gangs.

• Christiania Bikes: The cargo bike, known as the Christiania bike, was invented here and is a popular mode of transportation in Copenhagen.

• Cultural Events: Regularly hosts music festivals, art exhibitions, and communal gatherings that reflect its alternative and inclusive ethos.

Legal Status and Governance

• Foundation Freetown Christiania: Manages the area, ensuring its preservation and self-governance.

• Autonomy: Operates with its own set of rules and regulations