Appledore: Devon’s Hidden Estuarine Gem

Few of us ever put the places we visit into categories, but if we did they’d probably come under headings covering the locations we have to visit, like local supermarkets, shops, dentists, hospitals, whatever, and destinations we really like visiting, such as favourite holiday spots, theatres, cinemas, hiking locations etc. There’d be another category for me entitled, “Places I cannot resist visiting when I’m on my way somewhere else”.

The Irresistible Charm of Appledore, Devon

Appledore is one such place. Rarely have I driven the 53 miles from my home especially to visit Appledore, and Appledore alone - but I have lost count of the times when I’ve been exploring elsewhere in Devon or North Cornwall, and been tempted to leave the A39 at the Northam-Bideford roundabout to drive the two miles to this charming estuarine harbour village.

Appledore: A Village, Not a Town

Did I say “town”? Sorry. Back in 2002 when I did visit Appledore specifically to write an entire newspaper feature about the place, I was told in no uncertain terms that it is not a town, but a village. Which surprised me because not only is Appledore quite a large place to have such a diminutive label, it seems to get bigger as you stroll around its many streets and alleys.

Discovering the Hidden Depths of Irsha Street

Last week I was once again amazed by Appledore’s Dr Who police box ability to seem much larger than you’d suspect. I was walking along Irsha Street, which I had assumed from sailing past the port several times aboard the MS Oldenburg, was just a shortish thoroughfare that led nowhere. It turns out that, as humble byways go, Irsha Street is a lovely lane that stretches for an impressive half-mile before giving way to the sea.

Irsha St, Appledore

Maritime History and Coastal Pubs: The Spirit of Irsha Street

A salty alley that boasts, not one, but two public houses (The Beaver Inn and The Royal George) and more maritime history in its little finger than most streets can shake a spinnaker at.

A Stroll Through Appledore’s Historic Streets

I was driving back from North Cornwall (as reported in last week’s Hesp Out West) when I promised some friends that we’d break the journey with a stroll around Appledore. We parked on the waterfront and began our visit with a walk down tiny Market Street and some of its offshoot byways such as Bude Street, at the top of which stands the magnificent Appledore Maritime Museum.

Local Flavours: From Sylvester’s Fish and Chips to John’s Deli

I can also recall an Apple Tree Mews, Gibbs Lane, a One End Street, and a Meeting Street. The latter plays host to a tiny but excellent chippie, called Sylvester’s Fish and Chips.

I was in the mood for a piece of hot fried fish and while the guy cooked it fresh, he told me about his collection of cars - Fiat 500s, Citroen 2CVs, and the like while also giving me the background to one of the strangest shop windows I’ve seen in a long while, full of mannikins and weird objets d’art.

A Glimpse into Appledore’s Quirky Charm and Property Market

It was a great piece of fish - but if I hadn’t had a burning desire for it, I would definitely have lunched at John’s Deli on the main harbour-side road, which was once named the best delicatessen in the UK, and probably still is.

Looking up the prices of the one or two small waterside homes for sale, I also began to realise that this quaint and salty area has become highly fashionable - £half-a-million for a one-reception two-bedroom home anyone?

The Allure of Appledore’s Estuary Views

Not surprising, I guess, given its proximity to one of the most impressive estuary systems in the South West. Even back in the 19th century, a well-known gazetteer saw fit to describe the place as thus:

“Appledore has long been the resort of the neighbouring gentry, when they wish to inhale its breezes and bathe in its pellucid waters. The sea views are remarkably fine, and the walks and rides in the vicinity of the town partake of all that romantic scenery for which the northern coast of Devon has ever been so much admired.”

John’s Deli at Appledore

A Glimpse into Appledore’s Maritime Past

Irsha Street was once a very different place, filled with boatbuilders who made some of the finest wooden sailing vessels to be found anywhere around the shores of the Atlantic. I recall being told that Appledore used to be one of the country’s biggest tobacco-importing ports—a curious claim and one I’d like to know more about.

Windswept Beauty: Walking Around The Stern and Northam Burrows

Puffing on nothing but the Atlantic breeze, we continued our walk around an estuarine bay known as The Stern, and out onto wonderful, windswept Northam Burrows. More about them in another Hesp Out West later in the year…