Any Excuse to Head West: A Journey Through West Cornwall
The Meaning of Hesperian
The Oxford Dictionary defines "Hesperian" as an "inhabitant of a western land," making it a fitting term for someone named Hesp. Especially when that land is bathed in Atlantic salt spray.
Hesp the Hesperian
Exploring West Cornwall
In keeping with the spirit of these pages, it was time for another westward journey—this time to West Cornwall. The trip included a visit to Porthleven for the relaunch of Jude Kereama’s successful Kota restaurant and a stay at the newly refurbished Treloyhan Manor in St Ives. Additionally, a trip to Zennor, one of the most scenic villages in the South West, was in order. Zennor recently gained national attention when Sir Michael Morpurgo mentioned it on BBC’s Today programme while discussing his new play, White Horse.
Kota Restaurant at Porthleven
The Timeless Charm of Zennor
The Tinner’s Arms
Zennor holds a special place in my heart. As I sat in the historic Tinner’s Arms recently, I realized I had been visiting the village for 50 years. It was the perfect time for a nostalgic hike, especially given Zennor’s legendary connection to mermaids.
Zennor in winter
The Mermaid of Zennor
Legend has it that a mermaid from Pendour Cove fell in love with Matthew Trewhella, a local singer with a captivating voice. Unable to resist his songs, she ventured onto land, eventually convincing Matthew to join her beneath the waves—never to be seen again. Some say his ghostly singing can still be heard at sunset.
Pendour Cove
Walking Around Zennor Head
For those with limited time, the lasso-shaped route from Zennor village to the coast and back provides stunning views with minimal effort. The two-mile walk is easygoing and offers breathtaking sights, including the legendary Pendour Cove.
DH Lawrence on Zennor
The acclaimed writer DH Lawrence, who once lived in Zennor, beautifully captured its essence:
"At Zennor one sees the infinite Atlantic, all peacock-mingled colours, and the gorse is sunshine itself. Zennor is a most beautiful place: a tiny granite village nestling under high shaggy moor-hills and a big sweep of lovely sea beyond, such a lovely sea, lovelier even than the Mediterranean..... It is the best place I have been in, I think."
I wholeheartedly agree. Over the years, I have frequently explored these moors and cliffs, relishing their untamed beauty.
Back lane in Zennor
Directions for the Walk
Park in the village and resist the temptation of the Tinner’s Arms before setting off. From the church, a small lane leads through a farmyard where a choice of footpaths emerges. Take the left path towards the South West Coast Path. If time permits, explore the historic granite church first, which is linked to the legendary St. Senara.
The path winds down to the sea cliffs, where spectacular views await. Those keen on a longer adventure can extend the walk towards Carnelloe Cliff, but for this trip, the plan was to return to St Ives for an evening at Kota’s relaunch.
Treloyhan Manor: A Luxurious Stay in St Ives
The History of Treloyhan Manor
Treloyhan Manor
Located just above St Ives, Treloyhan Manor was built in 1892 by Edward Hain, a local shipping magnate. Designed by renowned Cornish architect Silvanus Trevail, this grand residence has been transformed into a collection of beautifully appointed self-catering apartments by the Carbis Bay Estate.
Modern Comforts and Stunning Views
Interior t The Treloyhan
Treloyhan offers 18 residences, ranging from one to three bedrooms, as well as two-bedroom townhouses with spectacular bay views. Guests enjoy access to the Carbis Bay Estate’s C Bay Spa and restaurants, with concierge services available on-site. Private chefs can be arranged for in-residence dining experiences.
Treloyhan’s prime location makes it easy to explore St Ives and Carbis Bay, with direct access to the coastal path.
Rates: From £300 per night
Website: Treloyhan Manor
Tel: 01736 795311
Email: Reservations@treloyhanmanor.co.uk
Kota’s Relaunch: A Fresh Take on Cornish Cuisine
A New Direction for Kota
Porthleven’s beloved Kota restaurant has undergone a major transformation. Owner Jude Kereama and head chef Ross Sloan have introduced a fresh concept inspired by Cornish and Basque culinary traditions.
Cornish ‘pinxos’
Introducing Cornish ‘Pinxos’
Jude explains: “Kota’s style of food has continually evolved since we launched back in 2006, but we are shaking things up with a new approach. Cornish ‘pinxos’ is at the heart of our new offering – small, flavourful dishes complementing the wine expertise of our front-of-house team, giving customers a new and engaging dining experience.”
Jude Kereama
The concept celebrates Cornwall’s maritime and cultural ties with northern Spain. The menu features oysters (Kota means “shellfish” in Maori), kroketas (Basque-style croquettes), Gordal olives, and daily specials. Meat dishes include tartare or carpaccio options, while vegetarian dishes highlight seasonal produce. The fish selection changes daily, depending on the local catch.
Kota’s Signature Tasting Menu
For those seeking a full culinary experience, Kota continues to offer a six-course chef’s tasting menu crafted by Ross Sloan, priced at £75 per person.
Food at the reluanched Kota
When I was staying at the Treloyhan Manor recently, I took advantage of a wonderful local taxi company, A2B Taxis Cornwall so that I could get over to Porthleven (and back after a few glasses of wine) for the Kota relaunch…
About A 2 B Taxis Cornwall
Premium Vehicles: The fleet includes a variety of high-quality vehicles that ensure comfort and safety for every journey.
One of A2B Taxi’s new electric vehicles
Versatile Services: Whether it's airport transfers, business meetings, or local tours, A2B caters for all travel requirements with professionalism and efficiency. 200 cars and 300 staff.
Experienced Drivers: A2B’s drivers are not only experienced and courteous but also possess extensive knowledge of Cornwall, ensuring you reach your destination promptly and safely.
Competitive Pricing: The company offers competitive rates without compromising on the quality of service, making us an ideal choice for businesses looking for reliable transportation solutions.
Website: https://link.edgepilot.com/s/b941c054/M3DQwQUHRUuuhAN5ua2V-A?u=https://a2btaxistruro.com/
Telephone number: 01872 272989
Final Thoughts
From scenic coastal walks and historic legends to fine dining and luxurious stays, West Cornwall has it all. Whether you’re drawn to Zennor’s mystical charm, St Ives’ elegant retreats, or Porthleven’s innovative cuisine, this western land continues to enchant and inspire.
